Jump to content

Canada's top-tier Telescopes & Accessories
Be as specific as possible when reporting issues and *ALWAYS* include the full version number of the application you are using and your exact *CAMERA MODEL*
NEVER POST YOUR KEY IN ANY PUBLIC FORUM, INCLUDING THE O'TELESCOPE SUPPORT FORUM ::: IF YOU DO YOUR KEY WILL BE DEACTIVATED WITHOUT NOTICE!
  • 0

BYE 3.0 Premium, 60D and powered USB Hub


stars4jon

Question

Any one know if this combo will work well? I would hate to invest in a powered USB hub or powered USB cable if it will not work. The scope and camera will be over 15' away. I am dying to use my rig with my new camera. Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Answers 11
  • Created
  • Last Reply

11 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

I use BYE 3 Premium, an EOS650D (Digic 5) and powered hub. You will need more than one USB connection between your laptop/pc and the scope equipment. I use one set of leads to connect the guide camera and a second set to run a powered hub that has my EOS650D and the mount. All cables are active repeaters and are approx. 30' long in total.

 

I used to use a single cable route, but like most others eventually it all began to fail as the USB system was overloaded. This can manifest itself as the EOS camera and BYE disconnecting from each other (apparently most common as the Canon SDK is very intolerant of short duration breaks or pauses in data flow due to overloads) or as I had the link between my guide camera and PHD freezing.

 

I am also lucky to have two internal independent USB hubs in my laptop so am able to completely separate the two cable routes from each other to further reduce the likelihood of overloading the USB links. Note. it is the input to the USB hub (internal or external) that can run at the maximum USB rate (USB 2 or 3) not each individual connection from the hub as they share the overall bandwidth.

 

Some users report issues using USB 2 devices connected to USB 3 ports or hubs, though personally I have not seen any issues. My equipment is iEQ-45 mount, Canon EOS650D and QHY5L II guide camera and this all works with my laptop and desktop pc's USB 3 ports even though they are all USB 2 devices, though this may not be true of other USB 3 hub hardware and drivers.

 

Hope this is of help.

 

Jim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jim,

 

Thanks for the very informative reply. It is much appreciated. I now know what I need to buy. Any particular brands? I know this is one of those you get what you pay for things.

I am using a Celestron AS-GT(completely overhauled by a friend), Tele Vue NP-127(non-is) with 10:1 FeatherTouch Upgrade, all Tele Vue Powermates and Tele Vue Bandmate Planetary Filter and Nebustar. I am trying to get a Focusmate Driver and Focusmater installed. We have already tried them at work. With my laptop running Windows Vista 32bit. I will post the results in a new post later today. I left my notes at work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jon,

 

A lot of guys recommend FTDI USB to serial converters (see example from a UK web site http://www.astronomiser.co.uk/converters.htm#serusb ).

 

I use two of this cable (http://www.astronomiser.co.uk/converters.htm#actusb) to give me a 10m extension, though others may say not as it is USB 3 but I have no issues with it. 

 

My other cable is a single 12m cable I got from Maplin http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/usb-20-a-male-to-a-female-12m-n50jb.

 

The powered hub I also got at my local Maplin store but can't see it on their web page (probably no longer sold and superseded now).

 

This seems to work for me!

 

Regards

 

Jim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use BYE 3 Premium, an EOS650D (Digic 5) and powered hub. You will need more than one USB connection between your laptop/pc and the scope equipment. I use one set of leads to connect the guide camera and a second set to run a powered hub that has my EOS650D and the mount. All cables are active repeaters and are approx. 30' long in total.

 

Jim is right.  At least once or twice a month I get a personal email or a support thread from an user saying BYE keeps disconnecting the camera.  BYE does not, and never will, send a disconnect command unless the user specifically presses the "Disconnect" button.

 

ALL camera disconnect are hardware related.  It is always traced back to a bad USB cable, bad connection, bad USB hub, too many devices connected on the same USB cable/HUB.  When this occurs, you need to connect the camera directly to your PC with a USB cable < 6 feet and work your way up until you find the connection/device that is giving you grief.

 

Having a single USB cable connected to a single USB Hub that is used to connected all your devices at the telescope end will/may eventually fail on you.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Guylain

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guylain,

 

Thanks for the advice. I was looking just to do a single cable with the powered hub or a powered extension cable I have sold at various electronics stores(Radio Shack, Best Buy, et al.).

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use BYE 3 Premium, an EOS650D (Digic 5) and powered hub. You will need more than one USB connection between your laptop/pc and the scope equipment. I use one set of leads to connect the guide camera and a second set to run a powered hub that has my EOS650D and the mount. All cables are active repeaters and are approx. 30' long in total.

 

I used to use a single cable route, but like most others eventually it all began to fail as the USB system was overloaded. This can manifest itself as the EOS camera and BYE disconnecting from each other (apparently most common as the Canon SDK is very intolerant of short duration breaks or pauses in data flow due to overloads) or as I had the link between my guide camera and PHD freezing.

 

I am also lucky to have two internal independent USB hubs in my laptop so am able to completely separate the two cable routes from each other to further reduce the likelihood of overloading the USB links. Note. it is the input to the USB hub (internal or external) that can run at the maximum USB rate (USB 2 or 3) not each individual connection from the hub as they share the overall bandwidth.

 

Some users report issues using USB 2 devices connected to USB 3 ports or hubs, though personally I have not seen any issues. My equipment is iEQ-45 mount, Canon EOS650D and QHY5L II guide camera and this all works with my laptop and desktop pc's USB 3 ports even though they are all USB 2 devices, though this may not be true of other USB 3 hub hardware and drivers.

 

Hope this is of help.

 

Jim

 

  Exactly my findings as well.  I'm running Win 7 with a I5 laptop, an Orion Atlas EQG mount, and a Canon 550D (T2i).  As Jim says, do NOT try and run everything off one hub and make sure you are using a 2.0 hub and 2.0 ports on your computer.  Buy GOOD quality active repeater cables (I think the best are by Tripp), use powereed hubs, and you should be fine!

Bryan S.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

While I don't disagree that hubs can become overloaded, my experience is different.

 

I run mount, focuser, guide camera, and imaging camera over a single hub, without any issues.  In my case, my hub is a USB-Cat5 extender.  My mount is set up in my back yard, and I run a single Cat5 cable to my laptop that I run from my kitchen table.

 

Another possible issue with trying to become dependent on WiFi for communications...If you go to popular star parties, be aware that they prohibit use of WiFi for operating your equipment because their network will not tolerate the extra bandwidth.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

While I don't disagree that hubs can become overloaded, my experience is different.

 

I run mount, focuser, guide camera, and imaging camera over a single hub, without any issues.  In my case, my hub is a USB-Cat5 extender.  My mount is set up in my back yard, and I run a single Cat5 cable to my laptop that I run from my kitchen table.

 

Another possible issue with trying to become dependent on WiFi for communications...If you go to popular star parties, be aware that they prohibit use of WiFi for operating your equipment because their network will not tolerate the extra bandwidth.

 

Rick,

 

Tell me (us) more about your USB-Cat5 setup.  Is it USB 2.0?  What Brand? Do you have a hub at the scope end?

 

You have me very intrigued (and thinking about a winter setup...)

 

 

Also, does anyone know of a utility/device setup to tell how many internal USB hubs you have and or what speed they are?  I haven't gone too deep but just thought of this while reading the post...

 

 

Aaron

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Aaron,

 

The device that I have is a Cat5 USB Extender (USB 2.0) made by Black Box.  It is a powered 4-port hub on the telescope end.  I use a 50 ft Cat 5 cable between the scope and my PC.  I also have another powered 4 port hub that connects into the Extender, giving me the ability to connect up to 7 devices.

 

Here is a link to the extender product --> http://www.blackbox.com/Store/Detail.aspx/USB-Ultimate-Extender-over-UTP-4-Port/IC400A

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

This site uses cookies to offer your a better browsing experience. You can adjust your cookie settings. By closing this banner, scrolling this page, clicking a link or continuing to browse otherwise, you agree to the use of cookies, our Privacy Policy, and our Terms of Use