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Everything posted by s3igell

  1. James, sometimes it is the easiest of mistakes that trips up an Imaging Session. Depending on your DSLR Model (and I can't find anything specific to the Canon 200Dmk2), you will need to manually twist the Mode Dial to Bulb for Exposures >30sec (an easy one to forget).
  2. You can also get Focus Metrics (again basically Whole Scene) when you run your Exposures through DeepSkyStacker...
  3. s3igell

    Focus Nikon Z6

    While an Alt-AZ Mount is not recommended for AP Imaging, it is Unfair to say that you Cannot Do AP Imaging with one. There are numerous examples of What Can Be Done with ALT-AZ posted on Astrobin and CloudyNights. Field Rotation is an Issue - and is a greater Issue with Short Focal Lengths such as your Lenses. In general, you will start to capture Field Rotation after about 30 sec of Exposure for Short FL and before 60 sec for Long FL (800-2000mm). However, with your f/2.8 Lens, you can capture a Lot of Photons in 30 sec. You can expect to capture Nebulosity in Brighter Objects - M8, M16, M17, M20, M42-43, etc. And you will capture detail in the Larger / Brighter Galaxies - M31, M81-82, M51, M101. Your mount being Alt-AZ actually comes in handy for a different aspect of AP Imaging - Nightscape Imaging where you don't want the Horizon to Twist as the Mount follows the Earth's Rotation. Your SW AZ-GTi will likely be outgrown, or relegated to Wide-Field AP Imaging, sooner or later for a different reason: Lack of AutoGuiding and Lack of Wedge/Polar Alignment. In the meantime, enjoy your Entry into the AP Imaging World. Learn what you Can and Can't Do for yourself. Then decide if you want to Upgrade your Mount - it will always be serviceable for Nightscape Imaging...
  4. s3igell

    Focus Nikon Z6

    Perhaps if you search the Forum for "Nikon Z6", you'll find some hints that will shed light on how you are to set your Camera and Lens switches in order to be able to Focus, as other users have reported they are able to Focus using their Z6 ( https://www.otelescope.com/forums/topic/3887-nikon-z6-frame-and-focus/ ). Just understand that BYN doesn't have an Autofocus Routine in the sense of DSLR attached to Motorized Scope Focuser (not what you are attempting, per your OP).
  5. Patrick, When we speak of 1:1 Pixel Resolution being "the best thing" for Imaging (DSO or Planetary/Lunar Video, the longer form of the reason is thus: The Canon 100D has a Sensor Resolution of 5184 x 3456 Pixels. When you take a Still Image, all 17915904 Pixels are recorded 1-for-1 into the RAW file. Once processed, the resulting Image will have "Full Resolution" of 1:1 (until you Crop or Resize). When you take a Video, the Camera is still recording the Full Sensor. But when it comes time to render the Output File (AVI or MP4 or...) it will output at most 1920x1080 "Output Pixels". Each Pixel in the Video is an Interpolated rendition of (5184/1920)= 2.7 Horizontal Pixels and (3456/1080)= 3.2 Vertical Pixels. Or, if the 16:9 Format is selected then Top/Bottom Masks will be employed and you will get 2.7 Vertical Pixels interpolated into each Output Pixel. (Obviously, this is not Optimum when you are attempting to get Maximum Detail out of a Telescopic shot of the Moon.) Thus, when BYE uses the Internal Crop Frame of the LiveView functionality, and captures a 1:1 Pixel Resolution Video (even if only 960x640), it gives us the Best Resolution.
  6. I believe this is the new "Built-In Intervalometer Function" that Canon added as part of the "a" Astro Camera Features of the Canon Ra. The other highlighted Features were the Modified IR Filter which passes 100% of 656nm Ha Frequency; and enhancing the LiveView Zoom to "30x" ("allows for precise focusing").
  7. Geoff, the Temperatures recorded by the Camera, while not tested at the surface of the Sensor (proved by a gang of CN'ers who disassembled Cameras), is in a position that records a very useful - very linear - corollary Temp which can be relied upon for the purposes of Darks-Matching. The Body of the DSLR will slowly absorb the Heat generated by the Sensor and the CPU - until the entire thing is "Heat-Soaked". This means that the Initial Temp is also important - don't leave your DSLR in the Hot Car while setting up the Mount. At the same time, it does little good to "Chill" the Camera beforehand, as the Air Temp will drive the Camera toward Ambient Temps and then the Usage will drive it Higher - all meaning a larger Temp Swing for Matching Darks. Things you can do: Start the Imaging Session with the Camera at near Ambient Temp Keep your use of LiveView to a Minimum - Focus as quickly as possible; perform Polar Alignment with Other Resources (PoleMaster, AutoGuider, All-Star Polar Alignment, or oldfashioned Eyeball) Keep the Back-side LCD Off, and if Articulated then Flip it Open so that Airflow can carry Heat from the solid Camera Body behind the LCD Replace the Battery with a "Fake-Battery" Power Kit (make sure it is the type with the Voltage Regulator elsewhere than in the "Fake-Battery Body" else you are trading a low-grade heat source for a higher one) And for the Extreme: Have your DSLR Modded including a Cold-Finger Cooler. (Or cheap-out like me and strap a frozen Blue Ice to the Camera Body where the LCD folds out - story for another time - but it works!!) Of course, you can move from DSLR Imaging to Dedicated AP Camera. But that comes with Significant Expenses, extra Complications, and having to walk-away from BYE/BYN...
  8. @MagicMotorWorks - Please ensure that you are clear when you detail whether you are making changes using the Camera's Mode Dial or BYE's Image Plan Shutter Mode Selector. Please be aware that for most DSLR's you have to operate the Mode Selector Wheel, as the SDK doesn't actually have the ability to override that Dial on those Models. Your description sounds like what would happen when BYE "Requests" that the Camera take an 80-sec Exposure (which requires Bulb Mode on the Camera) but the Camera is actually still in Manual Mode (which for most Models has a 30 second Manual-mode Limit). This means the Camera decides to Close the Shutter at the end of 30 seconds, while BYE thinks that it is waiting for 80 seconds for the Exposure to finish. Hope this helps...
  9. s3igell

    Battery Drain?

    Battery Usage by your DSLR will also depend heavily on "What You are Doing" - LiveView operation uses more Battery than Long Exposures. You can also conserve more by turning OFF the Back LCD on the DSLR (via Camera Settings Menu). The "Fake Battery" External Power Supply will be a welcome addition for all your Wintertime Imaging, as the Cold really shortens the Battery Life even further. Now... Time to figure out how to Recharge the Laptop for those long Imaging Sessions...
  10. Hi robie00, Thanks for your opinions. However, there are many reasons why various Programs, including BYE/BYN are only available on a certain OS/ Platform - of which Windows has an 88% market share (Mac OS 9.4% / Linux 1.5%). In the case of BYE/BYN, it is initially because BOTH Canon and Nikon have chosen to ONLY supply their SDK software to the Windows platform. Given that limitation, the Author (Guylain - aka Admin) decided to develop his Product using Windows .NET (again only available for Windows). pr It would also surprise you about how Restrictive Apple is regarding Programs offered through their App Stores - belies the "easy on Apple" idea. How often have you been to a Star Party where there are lots of AP Imagers?? What do you see them all running?? Even though there is no one limiting users to Laptops (Windows Laptops), that will be the prevalent favorite. The availability of Image Capture and Scope Management and Image Stacking and Post Processing Applications, the longer-lasting Battery Power, the number of USB Ports and larger Storage Drives, and the Larger Screens and Keyboards and Mice/Pads - all reasons why Laptops (Windows Laptops) are favored. But, you are free to pursue whichever alternative you wish. With enough Googling, you may find a suite of programs that will run on what you brought. Or else, you too can step-up and develop something that is as well accepted and productive as BYE/BYN. When you do, let us know. We all like to broaden our horizons... Clear Skies
  11. Unfortunately, there appear to be a couple of "Content Nazi's" sweeping through various Wikipedia Categories under the guise of "This is NOT Consumer Reports", and tagging every large Table containing Product Details for a range of Items from one Source (NIKON DSLRs or NOKIA Phones or BOEING Airplanes or...). The BOEING Jets Table was saved by a number of active supporters. The NIKON DSLR page was Deleted in a 3-to-1 Vote, and the CANON DSLR Page was Deleted after a 3-to-0 Vote when the "Save the NIKON Page" Voter happened to mention that "There were CANON and SONY and a few other Brand Tables, too" as a reason to Save all these Tables. That individual even asked for a Deletion Review (Appeals Court), which was Shot-Down mainly because "We aren't going to Re-Litigate the Delete Page discussion here"... So, the Wayback Machine archives are the likely only source...
  12. Guylain, perhaps this Forum could host a copy or an equivalent table. The info contained in this Table goes well beyond the scope of the Supported Models tables, as your Tables apply directly to the BYE/BYN Feature Sets. This (now deleted) Table includes other significant Info including Sensor Resolution and Processor Make/Model and Storage Card type and... All useful info that I've come to use when considering a reply to support a User's Questions.
  13. It appears that within the past month, someone has reorganized the Wikipedia Article for CANON DSLR. And in the process, they have abandoned a Table that was a GREAT Resource for identifying details of specific CANON DSLR Models. (Our Loss...) Until it gets purged from the Internet Archives, here is one of the most recent copies (per the Wayback Machine): https://web.archive.org/web/20200411023301/https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_Canon_EOS_digital_cameras
  14. Guylain, perhaps this Forum could host a copy or an equivalent table. The info contained in this Table goes well beyond the scope of the Supported Models tables, as your Tables apply directly to the BYE/BYN Feature Sets. This (now deleted) Table includes other significant Info including Sensor Resolution and Processor Make/Model and Storage Card type and... All useful info that I've come to use when considering a reply to support a User's Questions.
  15. It appears that within the past month, someone has reorganized the Wikipedia Article for NIKON DSLR. And in the process, they have abandoned a Table that was a GREAT Resource for identifying details of specific NIKON DSLR Models. (Our Loss...) Until it gets purged from the Internet Archives, here is one of the most recent copies (per the Wayback Machine): https://web.archive.org/web/20200410235913/https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_Nikon_DSLR_cameras
  16. s3igell


    Danny, I'd suggest that you take one more look at the In-Camera Image Processing Controls, as it could be that something is adding extra Pre-Processing Time before your D300 signals to the SDK that an Image is Ready-for-Download. You've already said that you've Disabled LENR (Long Exposure Noise Reduction) - GOOD. Is there any other Noise Reduction setting to Disable - High ISO Noise Reduction?? Your D300 is an older Semi-Pro model that offered some of the first significant In-Camera JPG Image Processing - Sharpening, Contrast, etc - each of which might take the Onboard Nikon Processor a second or so to apply to the Embedded JPG. Try turning these OFF (or Zero'ing) to see if you gain back any time. If you have the Compressed NEF output, you might want to Disable that too. While NIKON marketted the D300 as having Advanced Imaging Speed, it's likely that NIKON (and the SONY Sensor the D300 contains) were Optimized for Shutter Clicks, allowing the follow-up Image Processing to continue with the Buffered Images. Nowhere did they make much effort to address any issues of "Image Delivery Speed" to the "afterthought" of Tethered DSLR Control such as the "neglected" NIKON SDK.
  17. This is a Camera Setting on your T7i (check the manual for Auto-Power Off). It's likely that the WiFi connection defaults to a longer delay than stand-alone... It's good that you figured out WiFi, as we normally can't/don't provide much guidance for that, as WiFi connectivity has it's own set of Issues for AP Imaging (Lower Throughput, More Likely to Disconnect, etc). As for USB Cords, your T7i should have come with a 3ft USB2 A-MiniB cable. You can find these on Amazon or most Electronics Shelves... As you are attempting to connect through a Docking Station, you may need to first try it directly to the PC USB Port (even though Windows sees the Camera as a Device - you may have some other issues with the ports on the Dock).
  18. If you are AutoGuiding, you should have all the time in the world for your exposures. If not, the 70mm will likely show minor Star Trailing after about 45-60 seconds piggybacked on your SCT. That should be decent Exposure Time for any Target... If you have a Choice, try one of your Prime Lens - they are usually easier to set and maintain Focus AND likely to have fewer Aberrations (that last depends on Price Category of Lens of course). For a pleasant surprise, try your 50mm f/1.8 (if you have one). They don't call them "Nifty Fifty" for nothing...
  19. This is a very respectable Frame Rate for a Dedicated Planetary Astro Camera. It is a GREAT Frame Rate for a Tethered DSLR (and is likely limited by the Camera's USB2 Port ). It is definitely more than enough for Planetary Imaging. Even for the Speedily-Rotating Jupiter, it is usual to be able to Stack 5 minute Videos without needing to worry about Derotation - and 5 min would give you 10K Frames to Stack. Seeing Conditions and Equipment / Resolution will likely be bigger Factors...
  20. LibRaw - the apparent successor to DCRaw - has support for CR3 (and conversion CR3-TIFF) in the version still in Beta. (DSS is also waiting for that LibRAW to release from Beta...) However, for AP Imaging purposes, TIFF is not a "Good Thing" as it cannot readily be Calibrated with Darks and Flats. The recommended solution is to Convert from CR3 to DNG (which is still RAW non-Debayered data), and then feed that to DSS or PixInsight or whichever Program is next in your workflow.
  21. Start by Focusing on the Moon or Venus, then lock the Focus (flip switch on Lens to Manual). Now, aim at Vega or any Star or Cluster... If Camera is allowed to attempt AutoFocus on a "Normal Star" then it will lose it... The Camera Lens AutoFocus Routine is designed for Daytime Brightness and Contrast Levels.
  22. While Guylain, as the Developer, will surely look at the details you've provided, from the start it has bee asserted that only Save to PC works consistently across all Canon Models. (And this seems to be more so with the Newer Models.) At issue is the Canon SDK, which they provide specifically AS-IS / No Commitment for Support. We've been quite lucky that Canon has continued to provide a SDK for each New Model (usually several months after the Camera is Released).
  23. See this detail on the process to "Upgrade" from Classic to Premium: https://www.otelescope.com/store/category/2-backyardeos/#accordion-4
  24. For anything other than Lunar Imaging, 640x360 should actually be sufficient to capture any of the Planets through any but the Longest Focal Length Scope. Try your equipment on Astronomy.tools FOV Calculator What is it about the Video that "doesn't look very good"?? Most Planetary Video doesn't look very Good or Stable or Sharp, until it is run through a Planetary Video Stacking App - AutoStakkert3 or RegiStax6.
  25. There are some bennies to allowing BYE/BYN to create the AVI versus retaining the JPGs: Not all Image Stacking Programs can handle a "dump" of 500+ discrete JPG Files. Several use a Drag&Drop Buffer that is limited to 4095 chars Total for all the Filenames. Others try to Open all the Input JPGs at the same time - requiring significant Memory. Few try to store the entire AVI in Memory - at least not on initial Open. There are pre-processing programs such as AstroPIPP, which will Crop and Trim the individual Frames so as to produce a smaller AVI where the Target is always Centered. It can also apply a good Focus Score, and save only the Best ##% or #### Count of Frames. This makes it easier to run the resulting AVI through RegiStax and AVIStacker (which have issues with Large Files - or large count of files per #1). AutoStakkert3 has similar Stabilize and Pre-Grade Trim Functionality. You can run the AVI from BYE/BYN through FFMPEG and produce a Lossless Compressed AVI or MPG file that is 50-25% the size (for long-term Storage). (Guylain: There's a long-buried Feature Request for Compressed AVI output... :^)
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