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      LICENSING SERVER is back ONLINE!   10/08/2017

      The licensing server is back online as of October 8th, 2017.  TRIAL keys must use the latest release of BackyardEOS 3.1.16 and BackyardNIKON 2.0.9 to ensure the keys validate properly against the new server.  PURCHASE keys were never affected by this and they continued to work despite the licensing server being offline.  Anyone who had a trial key during this period can request a second 30-day trial key to ensure they can fully evaluate the software before purchasing.  Please send us a note using the Contact Us page to request your second 30-day trial key. Please use the following thread if you which to provide comments or discuss the situation.      

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  1. Today
  2. DUSB Cable Nikon D5300 Hep Needed

    First, BYN will work with only a USB cable for all models. The limitation is that it some older models require a second serial cable to control the shutter for BULB exposures. Second, O'Telescope offers a free 30-day Trial license to allow you to test the application with your camera. Most of the functionality can be tested during the day with a lens on the camera, so there is no need to waste a dark sky while learning how to use BYN. Go to the O'Telescope Store. Select the BackyardNikon product page. Scroll down a bit and select the Supported Cameras tab. This will display the list of cameras that are supported by BYN, along with any limitations or additional requirements. Here you will see that you can do BULB exposures with only the standard USB cable with the D5300..
  3. DUSB Cable Nikon D5300 Hep Needed

    Dear Friends, I used and loved backyard Nikon with my Nikon D5300 with a standart usb cable. I am sincerely sorry if this is asked and answered. I have been trying to find an answer but I simply cannot. Here is my question as I saw in some forums some models donot need a serial usb cable for backyard nikon. Do I need one to use backyard nikon with my camera or is my standart usb cable just ok to use? I want to buy this software but not sure if it will work without serial cable or not Regards to all
  4. Yesterday
  5. Compatible Canon DSLRs

    Aaron, I've been spending too much of my astro time trying to get my CGEM mount polar aligned, and so, the result has been to take mostly snaps of 15 to 120 seconds duration. I then post process to obtain ANYTHING resembling what I see in other people's results. I've been thrilled thus far to accomplish that much. But now, with the mount almost perfectly aligned, I'm set to do things with better technique (including guiding, using flats, darks, etc.) and more patience. Thank you for your encouragement. Bob Z.
  6. Compatible Canon DSLRs

    Bob, I agree with Rick. No canned air, use a squeeze bulb. I have seen the hot pixel lines as well. Darks take them out. It is all about getting comfortable with your post processing. I'm very much a novice since I tend to over process to get more of an image out of a few exposures. I need to exercise more patience and spend more time under the stars. Hard with a full time job, kids, and other interests/organizations.
  7. Compatible Canon DSLRs

    Thanks again, Rick(?). I did a quick read at the web site you provided. There's a lot of info there that could prove useful. People who replied to that article had possibly worthwhile suggestion as well. The amount of good stuff on the World Wide Web is almost overwhelming. Bob Z.
  8. Last week
  9. Makes sense?

    Thanks for your kind comments. I have an Atlas Pro. I do polar align, at least twice, with Polemaster, that I got a couple of weeks ago. I do really know that I will have to PHD2 guide in a coming future. However, I have to get used to all the wires, computer, camera. I still have to figure out how to connect my laptop to the Atlas, to get rid of the hand control and use Stellarium do control the mount. Regard, Fernando
  10. Makes sense?

    Fernando, in the equipment that you listed above, you didn't mention an AutoGuider. Yet, you are attempting - and successfully for many Exposures - to shoot long 150sec Exposures using an 840mm Focal Length. If Unguided, that is rather impressive. It shows that your Mount is rather well Tuned and well Polar Aligned, and the Scope is well-balanced. But, to gain even more consistency - and Longer Exposures - you are going to need to add AutoGuiding to your AP Skills. (BYE/BYN supports AutoGuiding via almost all of the popular Guiding Apps - PHD2 is the most popular of all.)
  11. Compatible Canon DSLRs

    Bob, Here is a link to a page that describes how to test for dust on the camera sensor. Dust donuts will be much larger than single pixels. The short lines that you are talking about could be hot pixels that are not being removed during image calibration. When the light frames are aligned, the hot pixels that weren't removed can show as short lines that are red, green, or blue in color. You may want to talk to members of a support group for your image processing software to get guidance on hot pixel removal.
  12. Compatible Canon DSLRs

    astroman133, Yes, you're probably correct about a can o' air possibly having a contaminate in it. But, then, what is it good for? I have both a squeeze bulb and a lens pen and will try the squeeze bulb first. Will flats, darks, etc. do anything about the seemingly random red and blue micro spots in my images? They show up in the black or almost black backgrounds in my images. I have used the eraser tool in my photo editing software. That's okay if there are only a few spots. When I most recently used Deep Sky Stacker, I ended up with hundreds +/- of tiny spots. Some of them look like short lines, a few pixels long, maybe? Bob Z.
  13. Compatible Canon DSLRs

    I have never heard that compressed air is a good way to remove dust from a camera sensor. The canned air could actually contain oil that would be deposited onto the sensor/filter.. I would check with a camera shop and/or search the Internet for ways to clean your sensor. However this should only be done on rare occasions and as a last resort. I have rarely used a squeeze bulb blower and a Lens Pen Sensor Klear to dislodge and remove dust from my DSLR sensor. Processing with flat frames will remove dust donuts from your images that were caused by dust particles on the sensor or any filter during an imaging session. Flats will also remove vignetting (uneven field illumination; darkening in the corners of your images).
  14. Makes sense?

    Thanks Guylain. I post this question also in C Nights. It seems it has to do with the mount. This is the 3rd astrophoto session. This time, I look more closely to the individual frames. Maybe this issue was there since the first session. However, in the second session, I was able to take 150 secs light frames from the Sculptor Galaxy with round stars (see attached. it was processed in Star Tools that I am just learning). I am very confortable with BYEOS from the first session. Congratulations for the great software. Regards, Fernando
  15. Makes sense?

    BYE is taking pictures according to your capture plan. If your guiding is not perfect or if you have issues with tracking BYE will continue to take pictures. Your issue seems to be with you mount, you need to figure out why it makes those stops. Wind? Vibration from the ground? Your english is just fine Regards,
  16. Compatible Canon DSLRs

    Aaron, I'm still floundering around with astrophotography. Recently, I began using Deep Sky Stacker and have not yet taken the time to image flats, darks, etc. However, I can see that my results need more work. I'm considering using canned compressed air in order to hopefully dislodge those dust particles from the sensor. Do you think that would be a dangerous thing to do? Bob Z.
  17. Compatible Canon DSLRs

    Bob, Are you using flats? A row of circular spots on brighter images (sun and moon) sounds like dust on the sensor. Without looking at images I can't tell but it sure sounds like it.
  18. What I am getting at there is that I can set a cycle time, start of image to start of image. Unless I have misconstrued something, I can effectively only set a delay time between the end of one capture/download cycle and the start of the next. That leads to varying time between captures. To make an example, using in camera dark frames, if the AV mode generates 15 seconds exposures, then the exposure and dark frame shot will take 30 seconds, then add a couple of seconds for the image download and for the camera to be ready to go again, Call it 35 seconds, whereas when the sky is much lighter the time to complete each frame would fall to only a couple of seconds. What I would like to be able to do is make an assumption about the longest exposure time that will occur and create a capture plan that takes each frame say 40 seconds after the preceding one was started rather than completed. Using AV mode to control exposure and a short delay between frames, what I get is approximately 35 seconds between frames in the middle of the night but as the sky lightens and the exposure time reduces, the time between frame captures falls all the way to just a couple of seconds so when creating a time lapse the movement of the stars through the image starts out slowly and speeds up as the sky darkens, and then slows down again as it lightens in the morning. There is almost certainly intervalometer software out there that could control the camera but BYE has other advantages that I would love to keep. I would certainly put this one as a "Wish list" item rather than something urgent though.
  19. Loosely related to the feature suggestion by Astroman (Which related back to me being tripped up by the 1000 iteration loop limit) I have found BYE to be good for generating captures to create a time lapse, up to a point. Having ironed out some idiosyncrasies in my camera I can capture with the aperture priority setting to create a broadly well exposed set of images through a day/night cycle, with the camera yesterday ranging all the way from 1/4000th of a second to 15 second exposure times. The problem I have run into is that the lapse is uneven speed wise as the cycle time between images varies with the length of the exposure. Particularly when using the in camera dark frame subtraction. It results in a spread of time between images from approximately 5 seconds through to approximately 40 seconds. Would it be possible to include a pure intervalometer function in the capture plans so that it would be possible to simply set an image cycle time somewhat longer than your maximum expected time to take and download the longest exposure image? I have had issues where unless I insert several seconds delay on a looped plan something gets tied up in knots and BYE sits there waiting for the camera, so I would suggest inserting a hard coded 2 second delay minimum after image download before BYE requests a new exposure, but that issue may be related to the age of the equipment I am using (Old Camera and old laptop running Windows XP) Obviously this suggestion would relate equally to BYN, which I also have a copy of. And hopefully I have not made a twit of myself by missing a setting somewhere that allows me to do this already
  20. Makes sense?

    I am new to astrophotograpy. Taking my first frames, with my old Cannon 50D unmodified, refractor SW Esprit 120 ED amd BEOS to take the frames. Love it !!! Very easy to use for a beginner. My mount is an Atlas Pro. Follwing the light frames as BEOS download them I notice that a perfectly round star frame is followed by one with less rounded stars and again by a new frame with the stars well rounded. I am wondering if BEOS is taking pictures while the mount is making weird stops, or whatever. This makes any sense? If so, would make sense to add some delay between frames? Or could be something else? Thanks in advance (I apologize given that English is not my native language). Fernando
  21. WHY does BackYardEOS now FREEZES ?

    I have used the same short USB cable that came with my camera for 6 years and it has never given me a problem, whether it is used by itself or with a longer extension cable. From my experience, I would say that there is nothing inherently wrong with the cable, you just got a bad one. You seem to relate the overall thickness of a cable with robustness. You are oversimplifying it. 100GB Ethernet cable is not shielded, but works just fine. The diameter of the conductor is what determines the electrical resistance per unit length of the cable. The diameter of the insulation is related to the operating voltage. Shielding is not always necessary. With all that said, you do make some valid points about the BYE user interface. I am able to overlook theses weaknesses because of the logical layout and strengths of the U/I. The logical design and layout of the screen are two of the main reasons that I was attracted to BYE back in 2011. Of course, the program has changed quite a bit since then. Things that could be improved. 1) Shorten the startup time...The time from when the program is launched to the time when the splash screen is displayed is quite variable on my 3.4GHz quad core i7 desktop. It varies from 10 seconds to 25 seconds. I have lost count of how many times I have launched 2 copies of BYE because there was no indication that the first instance was successfully launched. There appears to be room for improvement here. Immediate feedback is possible and also desirable. Visual Studio provides a facility to display a splash screen very early in the startup process...even before the application U/I initialization has begun. Perhaps this could be considered. 1a) From another post Guylain indicated that the elongated startup time was due in part to having to initialize 100 rows of the capture plan. The number of rows was increased from 25 to 100 to accommodate more complex capture plans needed when shooting the solar eclipse. However, there is no need to initialize the capture plan controls before the app is connected with a camera. Most of the time fewer rows are all that are needed. Perhaps making the number of rows a setup parameter (with a valid range from 15-100) could help speed startup. 2) I have no problem with re-sizing the main BYE window by dragging a corner to change both the height and width at the same time. The borderless window does make it a bit difficult to grab the corner resizing handle, however. 3) I am not able to re-create your issue where you are unable to change the ISO when LiveView is active. It works fine for me. Perhaps this was related to your faulty cable. There are other small issues that will be addressed by the developers, given time. Most of these are not show stoppers, however. I am amazed at how much Guylain and Chris are able to do, while still working at day jobs. Still, I understand how frustrating it is to purchase a product and have issues with it behavies differently from what would be expected. This is why they offer a trial license where you can test the full version of BYE/BYN for a 30 day period. Most of this testing can be accomplished while the camera is sitting on a tripod in the house, during the day, with a lens attached. Still the focusing and drift alignment features can really only be tested in a live, dark sky environment. They have been more than generous with extending someone's license to allow them to be completely comfortable with the app before purchasing a permanent license. I am glad that you figured out that your issues appear to have been related to a faulty cable. If Canon provided a mechanism for users to suggest improvements to the SDK I would be at the front of the line to suggest that they make it more tolerant of communication/connection glitches. Alas, there they do not provide any way for users or developers to give feedback. It has been a few years since I have looked in detail at the facilities provided by the SDK. It may be possible for Guylain to implement code so that BYE can attempt to recover from momentary glitches. It would certainly improve the robustness of the app as long as the app did not appear to lock up while trying to recover.
  22. Going into F&F or Planetary imaging with trigger live view automatically. Has this been resolved with the new cable as per you other post?
  23. WHY does BackYardEOS now FREEZES ?

    Keeps us posted, looks like you had a bad run Good job on troubleshooting the issue and finding the cable and the cause. Cable deteriorate over time, even a good cable will after a few years. The ISO may be caused by this too. Let me know if this persists with the new cable. Regards.
  24. WHY does BackYardEOS now FREEZES ?

    Right, it seems to be the 'QUALITY' of the Canon 'original' LOW QUALITY and supplied cable! I have been connected with EOS for about 20 minutes now with no problems any-more. The original Canon lead works fine if you use it straight connected to a Computer - nothing to do with program/s or the USB ports - mine are set to maximum voltage etc. The original Canon cable is very THIN and it is another thing I never liked and always forget to replace it with a PROPER one! The reason is very thin is because it lacks of 'proper' screening and cable thickness and when you connect it to a USB extension [mine is 10m but active = NO LOSS!] the Canon 1m cable becomes the signal dropper. I have now replaced it with my other NIKON camera which is a higher specification cable 2.5 times thicker because it has thicker wires + each screened + overall screened too [ thanks you Nikon, another reason I prefer Nikon!] and I do not normally EVER get these THIN cables anyway. My fault was - every time I used this Canon cable, it reminded me to replace it - then the next day I kept forgetting. So, CANON ? YOU ARE A DISGRACE - for the money people spend on your cameras, you give them the cheapest cable you could find - probably costs you 10p each which normally retail 99p on eBay! The other cable usually are £. 5 to £.15 each for a reason. So, my fault for forgetting to replace this cable I knew would cause problems. At least it seems to work for now - we will see. Regarding BYEOS, I am still not a great fan - mainly for its interface [ the screen side of it] it is too huge and slow and when you first run it - apart from the long time to load all the scripts and I guess also checks for HDD space - I will thick that off too - when it opens in smaller sized view and you try and resize it the way you want, you cannot use CORNER sizing - only the sides and when you resize the bottom part it seems to have lost its grip on the program - as it always does not move with your mouse but just almost arbitrarily some times goes off screen [bottom] and the internal window [ where images appear ] does not re-size with it and this is before you click on Connect Camera button. Once you connect it reacts better. I am still convinced this program has loads of small problems like this and of course I liked it enough to buy it! One way or another it is about 25 years or more, I keep fixing Computer problems myself - quicker and better. I hope this helps others. Regards M NOTE: I also had problems with not being able to change ISO/etc. when in 'any' live view. I do not know if it has been fixed in version 3.1.16 [from 3.1.13 I had] or if it is due to the cable as BOTH are possible- if signal level is too low, the Digital signal packet from / to the camera might reduce enough NOT to be able to act some control. BYEOS now controls this better I believe. Still working fine after possibly 1h -so, it seems fixed - phew - I have everything working now, so hopefully it 'might' be fun again !
  25. WHY does BackYardEOS now FREEZES ?

    I am currently testing everything and let you know as this does not make much sense with a but .... Answer might come soon ...
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