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astroman133 last won the day on September 7

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  1. BYN does not add any "delay" as you suggest. That said, you have not told us which version number of BYN you are using or which model of camera you have. A few weeks ago there was a similar question on the BackyardEOS Forum. The cause of the delay was never solved, but the original poster was able to work around it by saving his images to the camera's memory card rather than downloading them to the PC. To my way of thinking that is not an acceptable solution. It doesn't give you the opportunity to see the images while you are shooting them. However, you do avoid the time to download the image to the PC and the time it takes BYN to "process" and display the image. BYN does not edit the pixel data, but depending on the options that you have selected the steps are as follows: BYN waits until the Nikon SDK says that the image is ready for download Download the image. There could actually be 2 image downloads if you have told BYN to save RAW and JPG files. Your anti-virus software may step in and check the image(s) for viruses. (you may be able to avoid this by whitelisting BYN with your A/V software) Save the file to BackyardTEMP/Downloads. Read the image metadata (EXIF data). (Optional) Update the EXIF data in the image to add BYN capture parameters (Optional) Move and rename the image from the temporary directory to the Download directory. Update the user interface to display the new image, the thumbnail, and histogram of the new image. Also if you have told BYN to save the image to the Camera and to the PC, it may wait to download the image to the PC until after it has been saved to the camera's SD card. You can shorten the processing time somewhat by Save only RAW (NEF) images to the PC only Connect your camera to a USB port on the opposite side of the computer from other USB connections Whitelist BYN with your anti-virus software Make sure that the BackyardTEMP folder and the Download folder are on the same local hard drive. Select Skip EXIF Read and Skip EXIF Write on the Advanced Settings dialog. This does not even go into the possibility that there is some hardware issue like a flaky cable or hub that is slowing the download rate. If the camera supports USB3.0 and you are using a USB3.0 hub to concentrate your USB connections from other devices at the mount like the mount, focuser, and guide camera you may not be getting the USB 3.0 speed. If any of the devices are USB 2.0 devices then the entire hub may be slowed down to the speed of USB 2.0. If your imaging camera is the only USB 3.0 device, try connecting it to a USB 3.0 port on the opposite side of the computer. Also keep in mind that newer cameras with larger number of pixels create larger images that just take longer to download. I would also say that there is no need to "delay a second or two (to dampen any vibration)" if you have not touched the camera or scope. In fact, BYN does not support Mirror Lock delay because Nikon does not support it. BackyardEOS is built on the same code base as BackyardNikon and for me with BYE 3.2.0 and 18 megapixel T5i, the time gap between images is about 6 seconds, regardless of the exposure duration. If you have a 35MP D800, it will take longer to download the image to the PC and your gap will be longer. There is no way around that if you have ruled out the above causes and taken steps to minimize them.
  2. My experience has been that if BYE does not report an error that the images were downloaded to your PC. They will either be in C:\Users\Laurence\Pictures\BackyardEOS or in C:\Users\Laurence\Pictures\BackyardTEMP\Download. If you were on the Planetary capture screen then you need to check the 😄\Users\Laurence\Pictures\BackyardEOS\PLANETARY folder for the individual JPG images and/or the combined .AVI file. Of course, the camera might possibly shut down on its own due to a low battery or to protect itself from overheating or your Anti-virus software can prevent the images from being downloaded, or the USB port on the PC can shutdown to save power. Doing your imaging from the Frame & Focus screen is not the normal way to use BYE for single shot imaging. That is because LiveView is not designed to be on for extended periods of time and the camera can shut itself down to prevent overheating. You should control the camera from the Imaging screen if you are doing single shot imaging or from the Planetary imaging screen if you are capturing LiveView frames of the planets to assemble into a video. Also, Frame and Focus images are small JPG images and you want your single shot images to be CR2 RAW files. All Snap images from Frame & Focus, if you choose to save them to your hard drive, have the target field in the filename set as PREVIEW, so if your captured images are JPGs that have PREVIEW at the start of the name then they were likely taken from Frame and Focus. If somehow you did not capture as many images as you expected, then the log file can reveal what BYE was doing and if it encountered any issues. If you need help interpreting the log file, the admins ask that you do not post the log file to this forum, instead follow these instructions: Also, you can get familiar with BYE while sitting at the kitchen table during a gray day or cloudy night. There is no need to waste a precious clear, dark night fumbling around trying to learn how to use the software. This is especially true if you are using a Trial license that is only good for 30 days! When doing kitchen table testing, you can either put a lens on the camera or just leave the body cap on if you don't care what you are capturing.
  3. I am confused. C:/Pictures/BackyardEOS/BackyardTEMP/Download is where the images from the camera are temporarily stored. In that folder that are named something like IMG_0001.JPG. When they are moved to the folder specified as your Download folder, they are renamed according to your subfolder designation and the filename template. Only files in the Download folder would have the Preview prefix in the name. Your post seems to indicate that you have Preview images in BackyardTEMP\Download and no images in your designated Download folder. If you shot the images by clicking on the "Snap Image" button on Frame and Focus, the images will only be saved to your hard drive (in the Download folder) if you have selected the "Save Snap Images" option on the Settings screen. These snap images will have "PREVIEW" as the Target field in the filename template. So, if you saw new images on the screen, but they were not saved in the designated Download folder then it is likely that you have not selected to Save Snap Images on the Settings screen. I will say that some of the terminology can be confusing... #1. There is a Download sub-folder in your BackyardTEMP folder. This is different from the "Download folder" that you specify on the Settings screen. It would be better to change the label "Download folder" to "Images & Videos folder". And change the name of BackyardTEMP\Download to something like BackyardTEMP\FromCamera. #2. Giving Snap images a target name of Preview is misleading because Preview is an operating mode for the camera when it is not connected and when not connected you cannot take any pictures. A different target name like Snap or FFSnap would be less confusing.
  4. You need to provide much more information for us to be able to assist you. Preview images are created when you press the Snap Image button on the Frame & Focus screen. They are JPG images. What camera model? What version of BYE? How were you taking the images of Jupiter? Which screen were you on? Imaging or Planetary? Did you check the camera's memory card? Did you look in the BackyardTEMP folder for raw downloaded images? Did the images show in the screen as they were downloaded? If so, they will be on the computer, are you sure that you looked in the correct folder for the images? We only know what you tell us, so please tell us enough to provide a clear picture of what you did. Thanks!
  5. Images Plus is free, so the price is right. However, it has a pretty steep learning curve and it is unlikely to change as the author has "retired". Fortunately the web site has lots of tutorials to help. The author is a friend and I used to use it, but I switched away some time ago to use CCDStack and Photoshop. PixInsight is also a popular alternative so you can get lots of support. There are some regional workshops and online tutorials for sale.
  6. You could use a text file editor like Notepad++ to display a manually-typed title. Notepad++ also lets you zoom to increase the size of the text. The window could be positioned to display over the top portion of the BYE Presentation mode window.
  7. What scope? There is no such thing as an "ASCOM port". Most Go To telescopes have a USB port, a serial port, or a LAN connection that can be connected to a computer or a network. This connection allows programs that are running on the computer to send commands to the telescope. One way to do this on a Windows PC is with an ASCOM telescope driver that is designed to allow any ASCOM telescope control applications to control the scope. However, it does not need to be an ASCOM application. Any program that can send properly formatted messages and receive the replies can also work.
  8. The font size is pretty small, but BYE does show the name of the currently displayed image file above the top of the image.
  9. With your D850 you said "when I attempted to do an image run, I always received the fail beep". When does the failure occur? Right away, as soon as you click on the Start Capture button? Does the mirror flip up? Is it a problem downloading the image, like your Anti-virus software? How long was the exposure that you were attempting? The more you tell us about the steps to re-create the issue, the better we will be at telling you what is going on.
  10. The D800e is not in the supported cameras list for BYN. There may be something that the developers need to do to make it work.
  11. Look in the page footer of this page for a link to the upgrade instructions for BYN.
  12. The atmospheric distortion due to seeing varies rapidly and the purpose for taking lots of short images for planetary photography is to allow you to get lucky and capture a few images when the seeing is extraordinarily good. You use those good images and discard the rest. The images do not need to be too bright. You just need the planet to be bright enough that you can stretch it into a pleasing picture. Making it too bright by increasing the ISO or increasing the exposure setting limits how much you will be able to stretch the image once it has been stacked. You might try increasing the Live View Throttle setting value to slow down the captured frame rate. However, if you slow down the fire hose, I do not believe that it will result in longer exposures. You would just have fewer of them over the same time period. I do not believe that Registax6 can deal with RAW images. It needs JPGs or an AVI.
  13. You are correct, the shutter setting does not control the duration of each frame or the frame rate. It may only affect the brightness of each frame. I would also say that the Nikon SDK does not download or create AVI video files. It downloads individual LiveView frames and BYN controls the assembly of those individual JPG frames into a video file by means of DCRAW, a video tool that is installed with BYN.
  14. I may be misreading the log, but it seems as though the camera initiated the shutdown that caused BYE to hang. Were you running off the battery or permanent power? Were there any settings that would cause the camera to shut down? or the USB hub?
  15. 0.3 seconds is a 0.5% variance, so not particularly significant. It would be even less if a 600 second exposure was actually 600.3. That is not bad for an exposure that is started and stopped by a program (BYE) running on a multi-tasking operating system like Windows. I tested my Windows 10 Pro desktop PC with BYE 3.2.0. I took 5 60 second exposures and examined the EXIF data in the captured images. The recorded times were 60.1, 59.9, 60.1, 60.0, 60.0. The only other manually launched programs that were active were an email program and an analog clock widget that I wrote. I would suggest running the same test on your system with a minimal number of other apps running. If you see less variation in the recorded durations, then that may tell you to minimize the extraneous apps when imaging.
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