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s3igell

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s3igell last won the day on June 14

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About s3igell

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  1. Dark Current is only one element of AP Image Processing which is addressed by Clark's evaluation. (And while I proudly own - and sometimes AP Image with - a "best Dark Current Suppression available" 7D Mark II, I still collect DARK and BIAS and FLAT Frames.) DARK Frames also address Warm and Hot Pixels as well as Fixed Pattern Noise and Amp Glow. Now, few modern DSLRs have serious Amp Glow. And Pattern Noise is partially addressed by Dithering. And Hot Pixels can be caught by some of the more sophisticated Stacking Algorithms (as long as Aggressive Dithering is used). But, overall, DARK Frames are still a significant element of Stacking / Calibrating for AP Images with DSLR Camera Images.
  2. There's a lot of debate over the use of LENR for DSLR AP Imaging. The proponents claim that LENR ensures that the Darks are as near the Same Temp of the Lights as possible - since DSLR Sensors Heat-up over the course of an Imaging Run and are otherwise unregulated self-cooling. The detractors (including myself and Guylain et al) claim that the Loss of Imaging Time for all those 1-to-1 Dark Exposures is more important - since one can process well with 10-15 Darks against a stack of 40-60 Lights (or more). (And: many of the Canon and Nikon DSLRs don't support LENR via their SDK, making it difficult for BYE/BYN and other Apps to know what is going on when the Camera simply "remains busy" for several minutes after it has signaled that the Exposure has ended...)
  3. This is something which should have recorded hints to the Log, right?? Meaning that How to submit Log Files for Support Issues might be of help...
  4. s3igell

    Image flip

    Remember: You can do simple Camera Tests at your Kitchen Table. If your Scope won't fit on the Table, you can use a standard Lens (but for sophisticated DSLR Models like the T7i, certain Lenses can effect the Actions of the DSLR). Just point the Scope out a Window and focus at something down the Block of along a Treeline / Ridgeline.
  5. This is a common indication that Windows has some problem with the User File Privileges in the Program Files (x86) directory, or as likely a problem with the routine that an Older Program (Registax 6 was last updated in 2011) is using to access Files stored in those directories. Over the years and versions of Windows, Microsoft has changed their rules on where and how Access to certain Directories is Allowed / Controlled: Program Files is more restricted from use to store User Data, ProgramData directory was added as alternative, User AppData was also added as an alternative, and rules related to Registry usage were changed. That's a lot of changes pursued by Microsoft in their efforts to keep Windows as Safe and Secure as possible, while maintaining as much Backwards Compatability as possible. Unfortunately, Older and Unsupported programs such as RegiStax6 and AutoStakkert2 are showing their age and running afoul of these issues. Workarounds such as "Run-As Administrator" will sometimes work, but not always. In your case, the most likely effect is that certain settings you choose in RegiStax6 will not be retained across execution instances, and you'll simply have to add to your workflow to check/set those settings every time you use the program. For better or worse, this is the reality we live in as we pursue a hobby which is heavily dependent upon Freeware and Shareware and Open-Source Software, where Developers eventually move on with their lives and interests and are no longer available to actively support the products which the community has come to count on. This is one reason why a healthy set of Commercial Programs - such as BackyardEOS/Nikon - are important to our hobby, as it helps to retain the attention and talent of the Developers who contribute to our hobby.
  6. You may want to Reload the NIKON Drivers for Windows, again. Windows may have blocked one or more of the component files - something that unfortunately happens as Windows Updates try to do background Driver Updates.
  7. s3igell

    Double Files

    Remember that the RAW Files - .CR2 extension - are going to look Underexposed. This is because they are the Accurate depiction of the Image Data that you actually collected through the Scope and Camera. The JPG File is a "Processed" Image meant for Human Consumption. It is Processed within the Camera, with a couple of Non-Linear Stretches and Saturation and Color Balance applied (most DSLRs apply a Daytime Process because that is the most likely Image Target and are relatively Heavy-Handed about it because that is what Consumers gravitate toward). Along with the issues of the Lossy Compression applied as part of the JPG format, these are reasons that you REALLY want to stick to the RAW Data for your AP Imaging. Your AP Image Processing software - DeepSkyStacker, PixInsight, StarTools, APP, Nebulosity, etc - will do it's Calibration with the Original Linear RAW Data, and then offer you the Tools to perform the Non-Linear Stretch and Saturation and Noise Reduction at the proper later time.
  8. Guylain, You will probably want to retain the "sub-folders" styles, at least for a Version Release or two. This is even though it does look that your new "\" parsing will afford most sophisticated users with even greater control and creativity. One of the selling points of BYE/BYN is it's relative simplicity of operation - and that has attracted a large number of customers who, for their own reasons, do not like the more complex operations and options served up in some of the competing AP Image Capture programs. Why do anything to disrupt their enjoyment of BYE/BYN?? Just my suggestion... Now, I will probably make copious use of the new functionality. (Once we get past the "Storm Every New Moon" phase of the year...)
  9. Please see the STICKY Post labeled "BackyardEOS camera support grid, is my camera supported?" at the head of this Forum.
  10. That is a very good Saturn image, probably about the best you can expect from a 6" SCT. You can clearly see the Cloud-top Banding, and the Rings show Details including the A & B Rings and the Cassini Division!! Given the limited Aperture and the Central Obstruction, that's Very Good!!
  11. Hi David, While many of us have Motorized Focusers in use with BYE/BYN, we need to remember: The BYE Focuser Control is only intended to be a direct and simple interface to the ASCOM Focuser Object. This means that the Control is truly dependent upon what the ASCOM Driver AND your Equipment Driver provide Drivers are allowed to implement their own interpretations of all the related ASCOM Interfaces - or to not even do so (ie: support Multiple Speeds or Absolute Position) The Developer - Guylain (who will surely provide more of his own input shortly) has repeatedly indicated that his Design Intentions are to keep the BYE Interface as Straightforward as possible and leave most ancillary functions to the various Equipment Providers Don't let this discourage you, as every Vote for a Feature may indeed convince Guylain to make it his Next Feature project.
  12. The Issue would seem to be between Canon's Implementation of the Custom Shooting Modes and Canon's SDK, as BYE doesn't interface directly with the Camera but only with the SDK.
  13. Remember that even though the 7D is an older model than the T7i, the 7D is also in a higher Product Class (Semi-Pro vs Prosumer) that often means better quality Electronics. Or, it can also be simple Environmental Factors such as running the 7D on a Colder Evening than the T7i. Or you spent longer in LiveView on the T7i just before the Imaging Run. (In either case: Warmer Sensor means More Noise)
  14. You can probably benefit by Searching the Forums (BYE and BYN) for references to the other Windows Emulators (Parallels, Wine, etc), for posts by users who succeeded in setting up their systems. As Rick posted above, the usual culprit is the USB Hardware Support configuration of the Emulator. The Windows Environment needs to have full access to the Emulated Hardware.
  15. s3igell

    Nikon 810a

    Yup, with any DSLR it is a balancing act between keeping your Sensor as Cold as possible for Noise Reduction and Warm enough for Proper Operation. Your's must have gotten pretty cold to quit working. I've imaged with my Canon 60D at about -10F on several Cold occasions...
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