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s3igell last won the day on September 8

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About s3igell

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    Nuclear Fusion

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  1. To answer your direct question: There is little direct value to using any Plate Solver (AstroTortilla or ASTAP or other) as implemented in BYE/BYN, unless you have some ASCOM Connection to the GOTO Function of your Mount. This is because the main functionality implemented is for Centering on an Object's Coordinates. You can, however, configure CdC (Cartes d' Ciel) or Stellarium or The Sky or Google Sky to display the Resolved Coordinates in a Planetarium View (complete with a Reticule) so that you can envision the Framing of the Images you are about to Collect.
  2. You can do this with a number of Image Viewers or Image Editors (everything from Microsoft Paint to Adobe Photoshop). My favorite for a POWERFUL but EASY and FREE program that really blurs the line between Image Viewer and Image Editor is IRFANVIEW (https://www.irfanview.com/) You simply OPEN the Image File (or setup to Watch a "Hot Folder" to display Most Recent Image), then Drag a Rectangle where you want your Text, and use the Insert Text dialog. This will allow you to continue with BYE/BYN Image Capture in the Background whilst engaging with the Public in the Foreground.
  3. You should have every "auto" Power-off DISABLED - on the Camera and the iMac (you can let it Blank the Screen if that does NOT put the CPU to Sleep mode; but No to USB going to Sleep, Drive going to Sleep, VM going to Sleep).
  4. To verify whether it is the USB Cable (5 meters or 3 meters or...) or perhaps some issue in Fusion support for USB or something else: Take the iMac down to near the Scope for an Imaging Session or two using the shorter "Canon-original" USB Cable (changing nothing else). If you have similar "crash" issues, at least you know to look elsewhere than the 5 meter USB3 Cable.
  5. "Tv" / "Manual" exposures under 30sec are requested by the Camera and Timed by the Camera. "Bulb" exposures over 30sec are Triggered and Timed by the PC (or Bulb Remote / Intervalometer). In the case of PC-triggered Exposures, not only does the PC need to Time the Length of the Exposure but it needs to separately Request that the Camera Terminate the Exposure. This means variables in the instantaneous CPU Load, the Reaction Time of the USB Drivers and Hardware, and the Camera CPU, and even the Granularity of the Camera's Internal Clock Timer; each of these can contribute to minor variances in Reported Exposure Duration. In terms of the Exposure, as Rick pointed out above, the few additional Photons Captured or Infinitesimal Sensor Noise Accumulated will be very insignificant - less so than any tiny thin cloud that might have drifted through your FOV. Please advise if we've missed some critical element - perhaps you are running some Astrometry processes that make Timing more critical.
  6. In the FOV Calculator, you can select "Imaging Mode" and it will provide a selection of Cameras and produce rectangular FOV indicators, rather than present Eyepieces and produce circular FOVs.
  7. It seems that you have a rather Healthy stable of Lenses - including some nice "L" Glass. Unfortunately, as most Amateur Astronomy gear (Scopes, Mounts, Eyepieces, Adapters, everything) is sourced from Asia (China, Japan, Viet Nam, Thailand), the disruptions of COVID-19 have played holy havoc with Supply Lines. If you find Anything that is In-demand and In-Stock, you've really Scored!! The benefit of Prime Lenses over Zoom Lenses (and Scopes over Primes) are: There are fewer Lens Elements required for a single fixed Focal Length than to cover any degree of Zoom; Every Lens Surface scatters a percentage of the Inbound Light - even Fully Multicoated Surfaces are only 95-98% Transmissive; so a 12-Element Zoom might only transmit 80% of the Photons reaching the Front Element - yet AP Imaging is a Light-starved Endeavor Every Lens Element needs to be Aligned Precisely; yet Groups of Elements need to Move in any Lens to provide Focus - even Precision Construction can allow some possibility of Misalignment that is more Noticeable in Finite Point-Source Stars than in the broad swaths of Color Detail of a Daytime Photo Every Lens Element adds to the overall Weight of the Lens - not much of an issue for a Static Tripod, but a factor in determining the suitability of a Tracking / EQ Mount Scope Lens Elements are Fixed in a single Lens Cell, minimizing any Misalignment; but all Scopes are designed with Collimation and other Corrective Adjustment tools to allow for User / On-site Correction of any noticed Alignment Issues Scopes are always Engineered for a single Depth of Focus - Infinity; this obviates the need for most Optical Element Movements AP Telescope Focusing Elements - Crayford or Rack-Pinion or Helical - are designed with Very Fine Motion in mind - usually a 10:1 Ratio Fine Adjustment Knob (and a Focus Lock) Scopes - even those solely intended for DSO AP Imaging - come in all sorts of Focal Lengths and Focal Ratios and Apertures. As do the Field-Size and Brightness of the DSO Targets. Among the general DSO AP world there are: Maksutov-Schmidt and Mak-Cas - 4.5"-8" Aperture - usually f/15-f/12 - used for smaller DSO such as Planetary Nebula and Globular Clusters (and Planetary Video) Schmidt Cassegrain - 5"-14" Aperture - usually f/10-f/11 - Planetary Nebula, Globular Clusters, Smaller Distant Galaxies (and Planetary Video) Ritchey-Cretian - 6"-18" Aperture - usually f/8 - Planetary Nebula, Globular Clusters, Smaller Distant Galaxies, Smaller Open Clusters, Smaller Nebula (and Planetary Video) APO Refractor - 3"-7" Aperture - usually f/6-f/7 - Planetary Nebula, Globular Clusters, Moderate-sized Galaxies, Nebula, Open Clusters Imaging Newtonian - 6"-10" Aperture - usually f/4-f/5 - Larger Globular Clusters, Moderate-sized Galaxies, Nebula, Open Clusters Wide-field APO Refractors - 2.5"-5" Aperture - usually f/4-f/6 - Large Galaxies, Galaxy Clusters, Large Nebula, Large Open Clusters, Andromeda Wide-field Lenses - 1"-3" Aperture - usually f/2-f/6 - Large Nebula, Constellation, Nebula Clusters (yes, Scopes are usually described by Aperture and Focal Ration - leaving you to infer/calculate the Focal Length) The RedCat 51 would be great with your APS-C 7DmkII to capture M31 - Andromeda - and actually have a bit of "space" around it for context. Your 400mm Prime would require a 2-3 panel stitched panorama just to capture M31 in full. A Nifty-Fifty - 7DmkII combo could capture the central MilkyWay Nebulae (M8, M16, M17, M20) in a rich starfield background; or most of Taurus with both Pleiades and Hyades Clusters; or much of the Deneb-Cygnus Nebular Field; or Orion and Barnards Loop. And your 16mm - 7DmkII combo could capture the Antares-M4-Blue Horse area of Scorpius; or all of Orion and Monoceros area adding the Rosette and Foxfur / Christmas Tree Nebulae to Orion and Barnards Loop. While you are waiting for Clear Skies, spend a bit of time playing (daydreaming) with the Astronomy Tools FOV Calculator. Check out the possibilities...
  8. There you go... Congrats!! This will open you to a broader world of longer-exposure AP Imaging. You'll still need to develop your skills - Polar Alignment and AP Image Stacking/Processing. You'll also need to hone your Equipment List - rock-solid Tripod, Alt-AZ Wedge base (or gear-driven Pan-head). The optional Dec-axis Mount / Counterweight kit will also expand the size of Lens you can mount (within reason). I know you are just starting, but if you "get hooked" and want to expand your Lens list: Add a "Nifty-Fifty" Canon f/1.8 50mm for Constellation-wide shots Consider adding a Prime Lens at whatever Zoom Focal Length you find you prefer - they are Lighter, usually Optically "Better", and Faster. (eschew new Prime Lenses - look at the Used market for the 1980-2000 Nikon NIKKOR ED Lenses and a Nikon-Canon Converter Ring) Consider a Williams RedCat51 APO Scope or Williams 61 ZenithStar APO - these styles of short/fast APO with Helical Focuser are usually light-enough to mount on your StarGuider btw: Is this the iOptron SkyGuider Pro or Skywatcher StarAdventurer Pro that you have?? Or some other model??
  9. Your previous Log posting indicated you had the Capture Plan set for "Manual" and "1 Second". Above you indicated Camera set to Bulb. Try setting the Camera to Manual mode. Some Cameras actually make a distinction between "M" and "B"; others Don't Care; and still others only have one "Combined Manual" mode.
  10. s3igell

    Backyard RED

    Understand that there are several Windows Elements which BackyardRED cannot control - Popups and certain Window Frames. So, you are best advised to start by setting Windows to a Dark Theme. The combo with B-RED will do the best job of controlling the Dark Vision Ruining Light from your Laptop Display.
  11. Easiest items to check: Camera is set to Manual Focus; and to Allow Exposure without Lens Attached.
  12. Short Answer: YES Most AP Imaging performed with BYE is Deep Space Imaging where the Exposures are multiple Minutes in length. The Download Delay is rather insignificant in such cases, especially if Dithering is also invoked. Most AP Imagers make use of the available Image while further Image Exposures are occurring - either Live Stacking or simply examining the Images for Focus and Guiding/Trailing Errors and/or Cloud/Plane/Satellite Incursion. Waiting until AFTER an Imaging Session is completed to ultimately find that the bulk of Images are ruined by something that could have easily been corrected at the time, is a real frustration and waste of Clear Nights and/or Travel to Dark Sites.
  13. To fill in a bit of background: DSLRs do a LOT of In-Camera processing for each Image: Performing operations on the RAW data - Bias Subtraction, Hot Pixel Subtraction, HighISO Noise Reduction, Long Exposure Noise Reduction (LENR), Metadata Calculation, Rear LCD Image preparation (several of these can/should be Disabled) Writing an embedded JPG Image into the RAW File (regardless of SaveAs settings - which simply ensure no additional JPG is created and Saved/Downloaded separately) Interpolating the Image if sRAW or MRAW sizes or Video Output is selected (despite the massive Pixel Count of Modern DSLRs, you really don't want to "cheat" with sRAW or mRAW) Compressing and writing the RAW CR2 or CR3 File Modern Digic Processors can (and do) do much of this after the Image has been moved from the Sensor to the Massive Multi-Frame Internal Image Buffer RAM. But little of this wizardry is available to or even considerate of the "Old" Canon SDK which is necessary for BYE to access the Camera and its Output. So, while your camera may have a 17-frame 7fps Buffer, it will only release an Image to the SDK when it is "fully baked". This is part of the reason why Modern DSLRs don't produce similar results when Tethered Shooting.
  14. s3igell

    Canon or nikon

    From my experience, the Canon DSLR and Mirrorless work a little more consistently (and have so far always supported the 5x Zoom LiveView). Certain of the Nikon Models have been handicapped such as to make themselves completely unsuitable for AP Imaging (and most do NOT support 5x Zoom LiveView). For older Models, Nikon often had somewhat better Noise Control, but Canon is back to neck-and-neck. Make sure that you review the Supported Cameras lists - whichever Brand you decide to pursue. While Full-frame Sensors are quite the Step-Up for Daytime Photography, they come with difficulties for most Nighttime and AP Imaging: Larger Sensors generally need Larger Optics - or at least the ability to Illuminate a Larger Image Circle - and that requires significantly more Expensive models of Lens or Scope to ensure that the Aberrations and Coma and other Optical Issues are addressed to the Edges of that Larger Image Circle. Modern DSLRs / MILCs have added all sorts of Features - Facial / Pet Recognition and Focus Tracking, Gesture-based Remote Trigger, WiFi Connectivity, etc. But as you'll see from perusing the Support Forums, neither Manufacturer has put any effort into supporting these elements through their SDKs which enable programs such as BYE/BYN. In fact, most cases require that these Features be Turned OFF in order to successfully AP Image. So, it is often worthwhile to consider an older Refurb or Used Model for your AP Imaging efforts. Just make sure to check the Supported Cameras lists. Good Luck...
  15. Feel free to search through the Forum Posts (which go back for several years). This is the 1st instance that I can recall in all that time. It may be a dubious distinction, but...
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