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s3igell

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s3igell last won the day on December 28 2021

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About s3igell

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  1. Remember: "New Cable" doesn't necessarily mean "Good Cable". As it is the cheapest thing to try, start there. Also: Since Laptops are notorious for underpowering of USB Ports, try adding a Powered USB3 Hub (even though neither D810A nor D850 should be drawing much USB Power because of their Onboard Battery design). Laptops may also have all USB Ports internally wired as Single Hub Device - are there any other USB Devices attached to Laptop at same time?? Another good reason for a Powered Hub.
  2. As Rick states, it is not BYE that produces the Temperature Reading. AND it is not an "Estimate", but rather is produced and recorded by a Thermal Sensor embedded somewhere (Canon won't document exactly) on the Logic Board(s) that back the Camera Sensor and provide the DIGICx Processor. This reading is consistent enough for use in matching Darks to Lights, and to provide the user with a metric of which usage practices induce Sensor Heat issues.
  3. There are three significant Temperature Readings related to AP Imaging: Image Sensor Temp - necessary to match Darks to Light Exposures - recorded by Canon and Nikin DSLRs into EXIF Data and displayed by BYE/BYN Ambient Temp - useful for Dew Heater Control - usually reported by a USB Device such as TemperHum (which BYE/BYN used to support) Scope Body Temp - useful for Auto-Focus routines - usually reported by Focuser Device or External Sensor to ASCOM and displayed by BYE/BYN Premium Edition in the ASCOM Focuser Control
  4. The most significant issue with USB Hubs (especially in combination to Laptop Hosts) is POWER. Laptop designers are notorious for skimping on power output to USB Ports (in the name of Battery Runtime stats), and rarely fully power the USB Ports to levels specified by the USB -Spec for even USB2 levels. Powered Hubs are a MUST. Ideally, one will find a 12V 4-port Hub with a 4-6Amp Power Input that one can adapt to whatever form of Power Rig is used by the rest of the AP Equipment (Mains, or better yet Field Battery). Highly respected brands include Anker and Sabrent. (And even better, i
  5. One of the reasons that the Seller at TelescopeAccessories.com is suggesting the "True 2" Adapter is because your R5 is a Full-Frame Sensor. The diagonal Size of a Full-Frame Sensor is 43mm. The Clear/Inside Aperture of a standard T-Adapter is only about 36-40mm, meaning that you will experience a good bit of Vignetting in the Corners of your Images. The Clear/Inside Aperture of a "True 2 Ultra-wide Adapter" is almost 48mm - no Vignetting. However, with the "True 2", you will need to add a 2" SCT Visual Back such as: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1512119-REG/celestron_93661_s
  6. The RAW (and even the JPG) files generated by your Canon DSLR (and transmitted to your PC by BYE) are indeed FULLY COMPATIBLE with DSS, SEQUATOR, AFFINITY, PIXINSIGHT, STARTOOLS, NINA and all other Astro Image Processing software. Hundreds of Users attest to this every month with the Images posted to CloudyNights, Astrobin and other Forums and websites. Your "one clue" is faulty, as those are NOT values populated upon Loading Image Files, but rather are Statistics populated AFTER the Image Set has been processed (calibrated at least). And even then, if the User's Images were too Poorly
  7. Several newer Canon and Nikon Cameras have WiFi features. However, neither manufacturer has yet provided documented support for WiFi Connectivity through their published SDK's - meaning BYE/BYN have no documented way to use a WiFi Connection. That being said, you can search the Forum Archives for Threads posted by other Users who have found tricks to allow them to use WiFi Connectivity - usually by initiating Connectivity with the EOS Utility before terminating that App and starting BYE. The downside is that, if for any reason the WiFi Connection fails for even an instant then BYE is lo
  8. LiveView, as used for Frame&Focus and Planetary Imaging is an "artificial" image derived from a datastream that BYE receives from the Camera through the CANON SDK. It is essentially the 5x Zoom Image displayed on the Rear Viewscreen. Depending on the DSLR Model, it is a resolution between 720x480 and 1028x768. BYE receives this data through the SDK and writes a JPG to the PC, while for all other Snapshot and Capture Images BYE uses the SDK to command the DSLR to take the Image and then reads the finished image through the SDK to the PC.
  9. Next steps would generally need a new Post - most likely on a different forum dedicated to AP Imaging instead of BYE/BYN Support. CloudyNights.com is where I'd recommend... However, your best starting point is to clarify for yourself what you believe your Imaging Challenges are (Camera or Scope or Tracking or Light Pollution or...).
  10. When you say LiveView "runs for 3 seconds and then the video stop", what is your indication that the Video has "Stopped"?? Are you seeing an indication within the BYE App?? What indication?? (If so, send Admin a Log File - Instructions here: Or are you seeing something on the Camera itself?? Is the Back Screen turning Dark?? (If so, this is likely a Setting in the In-Camera Menu.)
  11. In Camera's Menu, go to C.FIII No. 7 and select Enable Release Shutter w/o lens.
  12. In the Camera's Menu, Go to Custom Menu 3 "C.FIII" Setting No. 7 and select Enable Release Shutter w/o lens.
  13. Using Windows Explorer, maneuver to the Directory containing the BinaryRivers...UnRegister.exe file. Leave open. In the Windows Search Bar at the Bottom Left of the TaskBar, type "Command". Of the responses, select "Run as Administrator" in the middle right. Confirm that you wish to use Administrator Privilege. In the top Address Bar of the Explorer from #1, right-click the to the right of File Directory and select "Copy Address". In the newly opened Command Window, type 'cd " (c-d-space-doublequote) (don't type the beginning apostrophe) and then right-click anywhere
  14. Need to remember this functionality for future cases where Win10 / Win11 steps on App Installations...
  15. s3igell

    Canon 20Da

    Unfortunately, trying to use a Canon 20D for Astrophotography truly is "More Trouble Than It's Worth"... 1) Canon Drivers for the 20D are only available in the old WinXP 16/32-bit style which requires a TRUE 32-BIT Win7 or Win10 PC (not 32-bit Compatibility Mode in regular Win10 64-bit). 2) Canon Drivers for the 20D are NOT included in any supported Windows Deployment - you have to find the old Canon Utilities Disk 3) Canon 20D has no support for Live View - meaning best you can do is view short Snapshots for Framing and Focusing If Time is Money, you'll likely Spend
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