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s3igell last won the day on June 1

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About s3igell

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    Nuclear Fusion

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  1. @kostaspap92It seems that you have some confusion about the meaning of 1:1 Pixel Resolution (and also what Video Mode does on a High Resolution Sensor such as your D5600). The reference to 1:1 Pixel Resolution means that every Single Pixel in the Output Video results from a Single Pixel on the Sensor. This is important when you need to capture the Finest Details - such as Planetary Video Imaging. On the other hand, Modern DSLRs with Multi-Megapixel Sensors (6000x4000 for your D5600) store the contents of the entire Sensor in an FullHD Video (1920x1080 pixels). This means that the d
  2. To expand on your 2nd question: I've posted explanations of the issue of "HD Resolution" vs "1:1 Pixel Resolution" many times. While this previous posting was in response to a Canon user, the explanation is applicable to your D5600 as well: HD Movies mode vs 5x LiveView Zoom - Pixel Resolution
  3. BYN / BYE is as capable of capturing Flats Exposures as any other type of Exposure "Frame Type" (it even ensures to NOT perform DITHER for "Flats"). Perhaps you were expecting BYN / BYE to perform some sort of Auto-Exposure Calculation to generate some "Best Exposure" for Flats. This, the software does NOT do - mostly because there are far too many ways to generate Flats and far too many "Rules of Thumb" for what makes that "Perfect Flat". But, that is not to say that BYN / BYE doesn't ease your efforts to take "Good" Flats - it provides both a Image Review Feature AND Histogram for tha
  4. Try powering our USB3 Hub(s). The Lenovo's are known to ONLY supply the bare minimum spec Power through it's USB Ports. You are using USB3 Cables at the Max Length - if the Power Cables are anything less than 18-22ga then the Voltage Drop would likely cause problems powering downstream circuitry (whether in the Hub or the TemperHum or... And the Lenovo has little chance to power the ZWO Guide Camera with much else attached except a direct cable.
  5. DeepSkyStacker-Live (DSS-Live) will stack Raw Files from almost every DSLR and Mirrorless which BYE/BYN supports. http://deepskystacker.free.fr/english/index.html
  6. You've found the issue - Nikon Camera Control is blocking BackyardNikon. The Canon equivalent of Nikon Camera Control, EOS Utility, has specific settings buried in its menu to control whether the Program does the "Auto Connect to Camera". You'll need to either find the similar setting and turn it off, or configure it to NOT Load on PC Reboot, or simply uninstall it.
  7. Download the latest version from the "Downloads" link on the Top Banner. Then, install it. Then execute it and use the Lock icon in the upper right copy/paste your your Key. (NEVER post a Key into Forum!)
  8. Paul, if you wish to make use of your Bahtinov Mask, it is best to perform your Focusing on a Relatively Bright Star that is in the same quadrant of the sky. If your Scope is an SCT without Mirror-Locks, then try for the closest Bright Star to minimize any impact of Mirror-Flop. Don't chose a Close Double Star as your Focus Star - unless you want to see double. Don't use a Planet, as the Planetary Disk will bloat and invalidate the BM Pattern. Don't use Sirius or Canopus, as they will make overly bright and fat bases to the spikes. And don't use Betelguese as it's bloated size often s
  9. A DSLR makes a rather poor Guide Camera, for a number of reasons: Mechanical Mirror-Box - needs to be Opened for Each Exposure (excessive wear - as Astroman133 references) or kept Open via Mirror-Lockup (also wears on Mirror-Box Solenoid AND heats Sensor if performed by BYE LiveView Option) - Sensor Heat causes extra Sensor Noise and Hot Pixels (which might trip-up PHD) Image Size / Pixel Size - the Large Sensor of a modern DSLR is a poor fit for AutoGuiding - Too much data to download every 1-2 seconds; Pixel-size is also often wrong for Auto-Guider Focal Length - too big to provi
  10. It is best to start by attempting Focus on a Distant Daytime object - a Tree or Powerline on the Horizon (or such). The Brightness and Contrast overcomes the Lack of Focus at start. If attempting at night, start with the Moon or a Streetlight.
  11. Does this PC/Laptop have any special provenance?? Was it originally built for Work Usage - maybe a Locked-Down Environment?? Or running within a VM?? Do the selected File Names or Directory Path from which they come have anything special?? Special Characters?? Stored on an External / Network Source??
  12. Remember: You can test most of the Features (and definitely get a good feel for the UI and how it works with your T3i) right from your Desk or Kitchen Table. You can even see how your DSLR will work with a Lens or Scope attached to it. About the only thing hard to do at the Table is some of the Mount Control via ASCOM work.
  13. Drag-Drop Image Viewer is a Premium Feature.
  14. If by "focus screen" you mean the Frame&Focus mode main Image Display... Select a decently Bright Star in the same general direction as your Target for use in Focusing (Dim Stars don't provide enough feedback to Focus). Don't attempt to "Force" the Focus operation within the FOV of your Target, as it is neither required nor likely suitable (Dense Clusters don't provide enough Distinction, Nebulae mask Detail, etc). Ensure that you are starting from a position of "Near-Focus" - when Far from Focus, the Starlight is so diffused that you may well "see nothing". Make a habit of r
  15. Guylain: Could you gin-up a special debug version that loaded more LiveView Startup Debug Info into a Log File?? (Next best thing to being there??)
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