Jump to content

Canada's top-tier Telescopes & Accessories


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


s3igell last won the day on July 2

s3igell had the most liked content!

About s3igell

  • Rank
    Nuclear Fusion

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. s3igell

    D700 BULB Issue

    The DSCBL-12 is the correct 10-pin Connector, which was standard for that generation of Nikon DSLRs. If you wish more confirmation, contact the Shoestring Astro folks by email/phone when putting together your Order. (Sorry, but I don't own that model Nikon... But Shoestring has a Great Reputation.)
  2. s3igell

    D700 BULB Issue

    The Shoestring Astro site Serial Port Connector Page - http://store.shoestringastronomy.com/products_ds.htm - shows images of the Camera Connector end of each offered Cable. Which looks to fit your D7000 (DSCBL-15 or DSCBL-12)?? Then add the DSUSB Controller/USB-to-Serial Converter so that you can plug all in and control via a USB Port. And maybe an Extension Serial Cable (if your setup needs more than 6ft between DSLR and PC). Or you can mount the DSUSB unit on your Scope/Mount and use a standard USB2 Extension Cable to reach your PC...
  3. s3igell

    Error Message

    The DSUSB line from Shoestring Astronomy is the most common line of Shutter Control Serial Cables: http://store.shoestringastronomy.com/products_ds.htm
  4. s3igell

    D700 BULB Issue

    The most common DSLR Shutter Cables come from "Shoestring Astronomy" - the line of "DSUSB Cable Systems". http://store.shoestringastronomy.com/products_ds.htm
  5. You must make sure that both the Display and the Background parts of EOS Utility are Terminated (use TaskManager), as it keeps the background connection to the DSLR Open... And, as always: Send Guylain the Log File!
  6. Kirk and Ruilo, Remember that you can control much of the light entering the Camera by changing the Lens F-stop to its higher values - f/20 or higher (after all this is just a test of BYE Control of the DSLR. You will also want to turn OFF features such as Mirror Lock-Up (MLU) and Long Exposure Noise Reduction (LENR). In fact, you may need to also turn off the more sophisticated Focusing Features - Face-Detection, etc - in order for BYE to work successfully. (Its a pain, but the wealth of sophisticated features provided on a modern DSLR are often directly at odds with what the Camera Maker supports in their own SDK Interface.) Good Luck - we're all hoping that Canon has provided sufficient SDK support that the new EOS R line will be useful for DSO Imaging.
  7. You should be able to simply install BYN 2.0.10 atop the older installation. But, the error you report may indicate that (like so many others) you are actually encountering a Windows Permissions Error (usually caused by one of the several Windows Upgrades or Updates). Try to redo the 2.0.10 Installation immediately after a PC Reboot. If that doesn't work, you may need to specify a NEW Directory for installation of v2.0.10 (in order to avoid the locked-up files).
  8. Make sure that you perform a Factory Reset on your T3 and retest, before you commit to costly Repair through Canon. (It could be that you've gotten the T3 into some weird mode that is blocking its USB Port from working.)
  9. Over the past several years "AutoStakkert!" (Author is Belgian) has supplanted RegiStax as the preferred Planetary/Lunar Video Stacking Software. First there was AutoStakkert!2, and then AutoStakkert!3 came out with 64-bit Windows support. (But now the Author has taken a hiatus from Dev/Support since 2017.) There are also peripheral programs such as PIPP and WinJUPOS, performing Cropping and Derotation chores for the Stacking Program.
  10. The JPG version of the Image (embedded in the larger NEF file or solo) is preprocessed In-Camera with strong Gamma Stretch and Saturation in order to make the Output as Colorful as a "standard naked-eye image", while the NEF is left as the RAW Data. As DSS and PixInsight and Sequator (and other AP Image Processing Apps) work with the RAW Data, until you actually perform the equivalent Stretch and Saturation steps (usually rather late in the processing sequence), the Images will look rather Dim and Colorless.
  11. Worse, some of the M-series Mirrorless Cameras are not provided a Bulb Shutter Function - limiting Exposure to only 30 sec max. And certain Models don't even have an Intervalometer / Remote Control Port. It becomes rather apparent that a different Canon Design Team (or Different Design Philosophy) is running the Mirrorless Product Design than the one which brought us the 60Da...
  12. It has become rather common in AP Imaging to eschew any real Star Alignment effort, and instead use the Plate Solver Sync to do a "cheap-and-dirty" equivalent. When Plate Solving works well, then this "Alternative to Star Alignment" works well... (It's kind of like relying on the combo of PoleMaster and Aggressive PHD2 AutoGuiding as an alternative to a Accurate Polar Alignment...)
  13. Not to disparage the apparent bug that you found. What are you attempting to do where you would wish to only Dither after such a large number of Frames?? Much of the purpose of Dithering - allowing Stacking Algorithms to Average-Out the Shot Noise - is Defeated if a large-enough number of those Frames retain the Same Noise Patterns. I would hazard a guess that any "Noise" seen in 40 Frames will be retained as "Signal". Or, are you performing some plan of Massive numbers of Short Exposures, where 40 Frames at same Dither Position are still going to be only 1-2% of the Frame Count??
  14. Depending on the distance between your Imaging Rig and your "Indoors", you have a few options: Run "Active USB Extender Cable" between Powered USB Hub at the Rig and Powered Hub Indoors Run "USB -to-Ethernet Converters" and then Cat-6 Ethernet Cable between Powered USB Hub at the Rig and Powered Hub Indoors Run WiFi Connection (available on only High-end Newer DSLRs) and WiFi Extender / Router (BYE/BYN doesn't explicitly support WiFi connection but some users have posted "How-To") Run a Stick-PC or NUC-PC or Older Laptop near the Imaging Rig and then Ethernet Cat-6 Cable or WiFi to Indoors and use one of many Remote PC programs from Indoors to control Outdoors PC Note: Each of these solutions has its own issues. All but #4 are subject to Throughput Speed Issues and possibly Connection Interruptions which may require Restarts and leave no direct solution for controlling the Imaging Rig Mount.
  15. LENR has always been a "Black Box" - we know reasonably well what is Input and Output but not much about what is happening between. We know that some form of Dark Subtraction "must be happening", but not the details. (This is how the Sony A7x DSLRs ended up with the "Star-Eater" Noise Reduction problems.) Higher-end Canon DSLRs even implement "Asymmetrical" LENR - where 1 Internal Dark is applied to 2-4 Lights in succession before another Internal Dark is taken. All without User-control beyond setting LENR=ON. Throughout all of this, however, the ability to take the Dark Exposure is NOT made available via Button or Command or SDK.
  • Create New...

Important Information

This site uses cookies to offer your a better browsing experience. You can adjust your cookie settings. By closing this banner, scrolling this page, clicking a link or continuing to browse otherwise, you agree to the use of cookies, our Privacy Policy, and our Terms of Use