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s3igell

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s3igell last won the day on December 7

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About s3igell

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  1. s3igell

    Won't start exposures

    You can set your Power Profile so that the Screen turns Off after X-minutes quiet-time but the PC Sleeps NEVER. That is what you would prefer for AP Imaging. Also, make sure that you pursue both PC Sleep and USB Power-down - the former is in Settings but the latter is in an Advanced part of the old Control Panel.
  2. BYE and BYN rely solely on the SDK's provided by Canon and Nikon respectively. Until/unless Magic Lantern decides to also develop and publish extensions to that SDK, there is nothing that Guylain can do. It's about the same as the mentions of DigiCamControl, which manages the DSLR Control via a pathway other than the SDK.
  3. s3igell

    Add ASCOM Observing Conditions Support

    OT: I hope this was a Spell-Checker Auto-Correct error, as Home ASTROLOGY has surely (hopefully) shrunk in the past few decades of "Enlightenment"... :^)
  4. s3igell

    Nikon D5300 - Connection Failure & My Fix

    Interestingly, for Canon DSLRs, DigiCamControl requires the Camera USB Port to be set into the OPPOSITE Mode of what is required for the Canon SDK and BYE. Is it possible that while working with DigiCamControl, you also changed the D5300's Connection Mode setting thus allowing BYN to finally Connect??
  5. s3igell

    Not completing exposure sequence.

    There are a number of "Power Saving Features" configured by default in Windows 10 which can frustrate an Imaging Session: In Settings / Power & Sleep: Both "PC Goes to Sleep after" xxx settings (You obviously want to set it to "Never" or at least a longer time than your Imaging Sessions.) In Control Panel / Power Options / Advanced Settings: USB Settings (USB Selective Suspend - DISABLE both) Sleep (Set all to either Never or longer than longest Session) Hard Disk (Set to something reasonably lengthy - 5-10min) Wireless Adapter (If you are using WiFi for Remote Desktop or DSLR Connection (last not recommended) then set to NEVER Power-Down) Battery (Set all settings to appropriate Times / Battery Levels - but not so Laptop "Panics" until the Battery is actually on Last Leg) Start this process by saving your Daytime Usage settings as a "Daytime" Profile, then set all of the above as appropriate for AP Imaging and save as a new "Astronomy" Power Profile. This will allow you to quickly recall all the settings in one Click, instead of learning the hard way that you forgot something in the Advanced Settings which ruins your Image Capture Session.
  6. s3igell

    D5600 Connection

    The Nikon D5600 is supported and requires only the supplied USB Cable - as detailed on the Camera Support Table: https://www.otelescope.com/store/category/4-backyardnikon/
  7. s3igell

    astrokev

    If this usage of the JPG is because you don't have anything on your Laptop which can display the CR2 Files that you've shot, consider IrfanView (it's one of the quickest Image Viewers that I know). And while I don't know for the recent DSLR Releases such as the 80D, but there was a generic Codec for display of Canon CR2 and Nikon NEF files that allowed Windows File Manager to display such Images itself.
  8. The D5300 and D5500 are different Generations of the same basic Sensor, as well as different versions of Firmware running on the Expeed4 Processor. It is quite possible that the Firmware initializes the Sensor in a slightly different "Upgraded" Mode, which could then bias the resulting Low-Light Long Exposures that serve for AP Imaging in a different fashion than for the much shorter Daytime Exposures. It is also quite possible, like Rick indicated above, that you are seeing the results of 2x different types of Replacement AR Window Glass. And it is possible that one augments the other to produce your result.
  9. s3igell

    Dave

    As for BYE and PHD interacting negatively - very unlikely. There simply are so few ways that the two interact or effect each other. The only direct way is when passing a Dither Request message across an internal network interface, and then sampling for the result. More likely: PHD2 can draw a large amount of data across a USB interface - especially the newer Cameras and USB2 Connections. One: Connect the GuideCam and the DSLR to different USB2 Ports - preferably on different sides of the Laptop - so that they are less likely to cause USB Data Bus Contention. If the GuideCam is one of the new USB3 Cameras, then use the USB3 Port for that Camera, and defer the DSLR to a USB2 Port. AND: If possible, try a Powered USB Hub for the GuideCam (unless the GuideCam has a separate Power Plug), as many Laptops don't put enough Power out the USB Ports to handle a GuideCam.
  10. s3igell

    Canon 100D What to upgrade it with?

    OK, so you have a 2540mm Focal Length, meaning that you'll want decently large Pixels in order to not waste anything on Oversampling (compared to average 1.5-3.0 arcsec Seeing Conditions). So, if you are looking to Add-On with a CCD/CMOS AP Camera, I'd suggest that you look at something like the ZWO ASI 174MC-Cool. It is a TEC-Cooled (important for low-noise long-exposures with a CMOS AP Camera) Medium-sized Color CMOS Sensor with "large-ish" Pixels that will get you a 0.46arcsec/pixel Resolution. It is "Discontinued", so you'll need to shop the Used Market, where they should be around $600-750 (which really shows the Budget Value of a DSLR).
  11. s3igell

    Canon 100D What to upgrade it with?

    You really need to provide additional information about: Your current Scope and other Optics (and whether your Mount is near Capacity) Your current Experiences and Issues with AP Imaging using your 100D (what do you want to "Solve" or "Do Different") Your current favorite Targets If you wish to stay with a Canon DSLR, the 7DmkII is currently getting Rave Reviews for it's Sensor. So is the 6DmkII (for being a great "low-cost" Full-Frame DSLR). Else if you need a smaller form factor, look to the ###D series, as most of the Mirrorless Canon's purposefully lack the Remote Control and the SDK Support needed for AP Imaging.
  12. s3igell

    Canon 20d with BackyardEOS

    An "ASCOM Driver" is only part of the solution, as it only allows ASCOM to communicate with the low-level Windows Diver to be supplied by the Manufacturer. You still need that original Windows Driver (which is only available through Canon) and the 32-bit version of Windows 7 itself. Suggestion: It may well cost you more in Time and Effort and Software (Windows 7 32-bit with valid COA Key can be found on eBay for $25-30), than it would to Buy an Good-Condition Canon T1i or T2i DSLR on eBay. Pursuing this Alternative also gains you BYE LiveView for Focusing and Framing and Planetary Imaging, AND a Lighter Load, AND Longer Battery Life, AND Bulb Exposures without need of a DSUSB Device. AND either of these Canon DSLRs will work with Windows 7 or Windows 10 in 64-bit.
  13. s3igell

    Running windows 32 bit for 20d

    You have to actually have the 32-bit version of Windows 7 (it's an actual separate version of Windows). It fell out of favor for general computing use since all but the oldest/weakest PCs were able to run the 64-bit version of Windows 7.
  14. s3igell

    Server port setting for TCP

    It is on the settings page (lower left), but only if you've Premium Version of BYE or BYN.
  15. s3igell

    BYD EOS + CANON 7D + WIN 10 = NO CAPTURE

    A number of Windows 10 Updates have caused havoc for users in the past by messing up User Directory Permissions. If you are familiar with Windows Permissions, you can usually find and fix the Issue. If not, the easiest solution is to Uninstall/Delete the BYE Installation, then Re-Install to a NEW Directory Structure.
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