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Backyard EOS Trial Version Issue


RickSebastian

Question

I have the BYE trial version 3.2 running on my Alienware laptop through a USB cable to my Canon EOS 60D DLSR. I connect using the standard Canon drivers for cameras built after 2008.

When I put it in "Frame and Focus mode and use "Live View" I see a picture of some trees a few houses down. (Picture attached). When  I click on the "Snap Image" icon, the camera takes a picture. The result is always a completely white image. (See attached). I've tried using all of the default settings, and I have changed the ISO settings to both extremes and everything inbetween, and no change. Always a completely white picture.

 

What am I doing wrong??

 

IMG_0512.jpg

IMG_0513.jpg

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First, Trial is the type of license. It is not a version. The other licenses are Classic and Premium. The license controls which features of the software are enabled. For Trial and Premium, all the features are enabled. For a Classic license only some of the features are enabled. See the Compare Editions link at the bottom of the pate.

The version is the release of the software that you are using. In your case the version is 3.2.3 (all 3 numbers are important). Any license can be applied to any version of the software. This means that if you purchase a Classic or Premium license it can be directly applied to the copy of BYE that you already have installed. There is no need to download or install the software again, unless O'Telescope has released a new version.

LiveView exposures are all very short, like 30 milliseconds or less. This is controlled by the camera and cannot be changed by BYE. LiveView uses the ISO and shutter duration to control how much the image is brightened. The exposure duration of LiveView frames has to stay short in order to make the LiveView image appear refresh almost like a movie.

When you take a Snap image, the ISO and exposure are used in the normal way. The exposure determines how long the shutter says open. From your screenshot I can see that the camera is in BULB mode, This means that the exposure is in excess of 1 second. For a daytime picture, a one second exposure will cause the image to be overexposed (totally white). In order for a Snap exposure to appear similar to the LiveView you would have to change the camera to Manual mode and change the Shutter to like 1/1000 of a second before taking the Snap image.

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17 hours ago, admin said:

This image is overexposed. It's not a software issue.

The 60D has a separate dial mode for BULB and TV images.

You'll need to set the dial to "M" or "TV" to take images of less than 1 second if you don't want them overexposed.

Regards,

 

Thank you very much for the assistance. I think I have it now.

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18 hours ago, astroman133 said:

First, Trial is the type of license. It is not a version. The other licenses are Classic and Premium. The license controls which features of the software are enabled. For Trial and Premium, all the features are enabled. For a Classic license only some of the features are enabled. See the Compare Editions link at the bottom of the pate.

The version is the release of the software that you are using. In your case the version is 3.2.5 (all 3 numbers are important). Any license can be applied to any version of the software. This means that if you purchase a Classic or Premium license it can be directly applied to the copy of BYE that you already have installed. There is no need to download or install the software again, unless O'Telescope has released a new version.

LiveView exposures are all very short, like 30 milliseconds or less. This is controlled by the camera and cannot be changed by BYE. LiveView uses the ISO and shutter duration to control how much the image is brightened. The exposure duration of LiveView frames has to stay short in order to make the LiveView image appear refresh almost like a movie.

When you take a Snap image, the ISO and exposure are used in the normal way. The exposure determines how long the shutter says open. From your screenshot I can see that the camera is in BULB mode, This means that the exposure is in excess of 1 second. For a daytime picture, a one second exposure will cause the image to be overexposed (totally white). In order for a Snap exposure to appear similar to the LiveView you would have to change the camera to Manual mode and change the Shutter to like 1/1000 of a second before taking the Snap image.

Thank you for the assistance. I actually have version 3.2.3, so I guess I need to update the program. I plan to try and take a picture/video of Jupiter and the Orion nebula tonight. If that goes well I'm going to try for the Pleiades star cluster. What settings would you recommend for these targets? ? I plan on hooking my Canon 60D DSLR to my Orion ST80 refractor for this test.

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I typo'ed the version that I am using. 3.2.3 is the latest release. There is a pre-release version of 3.5.0-RC7, but other than camera support there is not much new in it, as far as  major features goes. The only exception is that with 3.5.0 there is a 64-bit version. This is mostly for Nikon users (BYN uses the same code base as BYE) since Nikon is only supporting a 64-bit version of their SDK for new camera models.

First, I would focus on a bright star before moving to your targets. Procyon may be a good  choice.

For a planetary image of Jupiter, you need a focal length of 4000mm or longer. I have used an 8" SCT with a 2X Barlow. I would set the ISO to 800 and the shooting mode to Manual. Then start with a short exposure and lengthen it, while looking at Jupiter, until you can just see the equatorial bands. The images that you capture should be dark. You can always brighten it during processing, but darkening an overexposed image is problematic. Also you need to keep your video short enough that it does not exceed 60 seconds. If you get over 70 seconds, you may start to see the planet's rotation.

For the Orion Nebula, how long each exposure should be and how many exposures to capture will depend on your equipment, sky conditions, and experience. When I first shot M42 i  took 20 exposures each 120 seconds long and 20 exposures at 240 seconds with a Canon EOS Rebel XSi. This let me blend in the shorter exposures of the Trapezium area with the longer exposures of the fainter regions. All used 1600 ISO. I was using a 5" fast refractor and was autoguiding.

For the Pleiades I shot 20 exposures at 10 seconds and ISO 1600, since it is pretty bright, again with a 5" refractor.

The above are just guidelines to get you started. I hope this helps.

 

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