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Found 5 results

  1. Dear, I use the Nikon Z50 and imaging works fine but when I click frame & Focus the application doesn't give a live image. I can take a snap and see the image but the button Live view seems to do nothing. Tried these things: Reset Nikon Z50 setting to factory defaults Checked Nikon firmware (=latest) Reinstalled my laptop (windows 10 Enterprise 64 bit) Installed a new laptop with Windows 10 Enterprise but 32 bit version Always the same result which makes achieving focus very hard. Firmware Nikon: C 1.10 LF 1.00 BackyardNikon version 2.0.11 Premium Do you have any suggestions? Clear skies. Tom
  2. I'm running BYEOS 3.1.17 and my Canon T7i/800D. First of all, I love BYEOS and it's taking wonderful shots, so no complaints at all. My question is about 2 things: 1) In Live View, I see quite a bit of noise moving around. I'm using my Laptop to connect with BYEOS. There's so much noise that it's difficult to see particular objects in the Live View unless I use Star-HD. This makes it challenging to focus using my bahtinov mask and is generally disconcerting. All the noise goes away when I take a photo, so it's only in Live View Frame and Focus that it's an issue. Is there some setting related to this? 2) What are the key settings to enable/disable for the T7i in BYEOS?
  3. Because of the detrimental impact of Drift Alignment's LiveView usage Heat-Soaking the DSLR, I have only once used the BYE Drift Align Tool. It should be possible to use a combination of Short Exposure JPGs and the code of the Framing Mask to show a useful Drift Trend for Alignment purposes. This would Exercise the Shutter for several dozen or a few hundred clicks, but would only incur a minute or two of Sensor and DIGIC Usage, and hence much less Heat Generation. It would also allow longer Exposures than LiveView uses, meaning Drift Alignment having a larger choice of Stars rather than just those of highest magnitude.
  4. I gave BYN a try today and if I understand correctly, I should be able to get liveview from my D3s with only the USB cable. However when I go to the frame&focus tab, I hear the mirror go up but I'm only getting a black screen. If I take a preview in the imaging tab it displays perfectly. I've tried with several USB cables, tried rebooting my PC, disconnecting & reconnecting the camera but to no avail. Does anyone have any ideas?
  5. Even though there are the Large "Play" / "Pause" buttons in the lower-right during the LiveView-enabled Modes, the actual LiveView status is confusing if you don't have enough Motion/Noise in the Image Display to actually confirm whether the DSLR Sensor is "Active" or "Paused" (and hence "Cooling" or "Building-up Heat"). When an AVI is being Captured, the Progress Wheel is displayed (although it states "Busy" in a confusing manner for Planetary Capture), but at other times in these Modes it is dimmed/unused. Posting the actual LiveView Status to the Progress Center would be an unmistakable (and unmissable) indicator. (The "highlight" on the Play/Pause button is especially hard to confirm when one has Rubylith over the Laptop Screen. I unfortunately learned this the hard way while thinking that I was "Cooling" the LiveView Sensor in between AVI Captures of the recent Jovian Triple Transit of 1/24. I got some rather "Warm" AVI Captures towards the middle of this multi-hour Event...)
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