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Found 11 results

  1. Hi. My D500 appears to allow me to achieve "1:1 (100%)" pixel display in Live Mode. It's the 4th zoom level, or alternatively, the multi-selector button toggles directly to the "1:1 (100%)" zoom mode as defined in the Custom Settings --> Controls --> f2 setting. Does this mean that I have the same ability to achieve best resolution in Planetary mode as Canons? My other alternative on the D500 is to record 4K /30fps video (which employs a 1.45x crop) bypassing BYN, though that results on much bigger (but still manageable) video files that I need to convert to .avi before stacking. I'd love to hear views on which of these methods will give me the best planetary videos for stacking. Thanks! Andrew
  2. Sorry, I'm new at Backyard Nikon, and also to Nikon equipment. My problem is in trying to take planetary video, (camera is set to 'M') but I cannot alter the exposure time, which defaults to something like 15seconds. What am I doing wrong? Never had this issue on the Canon and BYEOS...trying to operate the Nikon similarly. Any suggestions?
  3. PsylumWayne

    In Camera 5x

    In most of the planetary photography with DLSRs articles I've read, it is recommended to use the "crop sensor" in movie mode. BYE makes no mention of this. Is the in camera 5x zoom the same thing? Do they do the same thing?
  4. orioneos

    Version 3.1.8

    I recently upgraded from v.3.1.4 to v.3.1.8 My camera is the Canon EOS 1100D. I now find that when using the Planetary Mode the exposure time included in the file title has changed. For instance, when the exposure time is 1/100 s, it is reported as Tv1100s in the filename, instead of Tv1-100s, as in the previous version. Is this correct ?
  5. I'm trying the EOS software and when I put in Planetary mode it only records vídeo or jpg in low resolution. Is there any way to record live preview vídeo in full resolution. I have a EOS 5D MKIII. Thank you.
  6. Hi. So I recently donloaded the trail version of BYN to see if I could do some planetary AP with my D7100. I was under the impression that while in Live View mode unde the planetary tab, it would crop the image to the centre 640*480 pixels of the sensor. However after testing, it just takes a full frame image at 640*480, and its rather blurry. I cant seem to figure out whats wrong, it has a 5x frame in the middle where its meant to record but it just doesnt? The program seems great but at this rate I will have to go out and buy a canon. Any suggestions? Thanks Dan
  7. While performing some Planetary Imaging of Jupiter earlier this week, I had occasion to start using the new "True" LiveView Pause in both Frame&Focus and Planetary. I run with "Max Sensitivity" - for the obvious reasons. But, while working with Jupiter, it is Bright Enough that I need only 1/40sec at 400ISO. So, I set both Frame&Focus and Planetary Exposure Plans to that setting. Then, I found that whenever I used Pause (to save on LiveView Sensor Heating - it was 45*F Ambient instead of the 0*F that some of you are fighting), when I "Un-Paused" the Exposure Plan would immediately return to 2sec at 6400ISO (Max Sensitivity for my 60D). After about the 3rd round of resetting both the Exposure and ISO, this became OLD. I can understand asserting Max Sensitivity settings when one changes Mode into either of these LiveView modes (or at least when switching into Frame&Focus), but this Pause behavior is essentially becoming a "Pause Penalty" for anyone who is concerned to use this Pause Feature in order to reduce LiveView-generated Thermal Noise... Can this be fixed ?? Or is there an unobvious reason this Action must be ??
  8. It would be interesting, in this Age of Super-Fast DSLR Processors and Extreme Speed SD Cards, to consider (especially for those lacking a 5x LiveView capability) the possibility of an SDK-controlled "Perpetual JPG Imaging Mode". Such a Feature might: 1) Trigger individual JPG Images as fast as the DSLR Processor can Buffer and Write-to-SD-Card (allowing User Choice of which JPG Mode to be used) 2) Maintain a Frame Count control, and maybe a Time Limit control (Jupiter Imaging only being good for 3-4min contiguous Stacking before Planetary Rotation starts to smear the resulting Image) 3) Return the DSLR to initial RAW Mode after completion This would result in a Large Collection of In-Camera JPG Images, assuming the SDK cannot later be used to Download them for further Processing. There are several AP-related Image Processing Apps which later combine the individual JPGs into an AVI (including VirtualDub - which BYE/BYN uses), as well as a couple of Planetary Image Stacking Apps (AutoStakkert2, RegiStax6, supporting Apps AstroPIPP, WinJUPOS) which can process collections of JPGs directly to Stacked Planetary Images. While these JPG Images wouldn't have the benefit of the Cropping performed by BYE in 5x LiveView mode, each of the above-listed AP Image Stacking Apps has an Automated Cropping Function which can Intelligently Follow the Planet as it Drifts across the Images. As long as the JPG Mode selected is either Lossless or only uses mild Compression, the JPG Image Quality should be Every Bit as Good as that of the LiveView-Capture since in both cases the same In-Camera processing is invoked. The DSLR SDKs might offer the ability to identify the In-Camera Filenames assigned for Frames of each "JPG Planetary Imaging Run", and if BYE/BYN cannot offer to Download all the Images from the SD Card then at least can identify the Beginning and Ending Filenames (for later processing). These SDKs might even allow for Creation of individual On-Card Directories to further facilitate later Image Processing. BYE/BYN might even be able to initiate the follow-on Image Stacking processes (AutoStakkert2 and AstroPIPP and WinJUPOS are actively supported by their developers) with a Command-Line formatted to invoke Stacking (or at least Cropping) with the proper Image Filename Lists. Else BYE/BYN might offer to create a "Monster Uncropped AVI" from the accumulated JPG Files via VirtualDub.
  9. In the Planetary Imaging mode, in addition to the Frame Count as the limit for the completion of a Live View Capture, please consider adding a Capture Duration Time Limit too. This could be implemented as an alternative Limit on the Capture, or as a Combo "Whichever Condition is Met First" Limit. For most Lunar Imaging, there is no real reason (except maybe HDD Space or Sensor Heat) to limit the Video Capture Duration. For Jupiter (and a lesser extent Saturn), the physical Rotation of the Planet requires a Time Limit on the Duration of Video Captures - 3-3.5 minutes with Jupiter - before an External Derotation Process is required. Given that BYE determines the Potential Frame Rate at the beginning of every individual LiveView Capture, certain external conditions can influence the "Detected Frame Rate" (USB or HDD Contention, Background CPU Usage Spike, etc) or impact the "Actual Frame Rate" once Capture is commenced. It isn't too big a deal to end up with a 2-3 second under/overrun. But it would be helpful to have the Option to be Explicit.
  10. Even though there are the Large "Play" / "Pause" buttons in the lower-right during the LiveView-enabled Modes, the actual LiveView status is confusing if you don't have enough Motion/Noise in the Image Display to actually confirm whether the DSLR Sensor is "Active" or "Paused" (and hence "Cooling" or "Building-up Heat"). When an AVI is being Captured, the Progress Wheel is displayed (although it states "Busy" in a confusing manner for Planetary Capture), but at other times in these Modes it is dimmed/unused. Posting the actual LiveView Status to the Progress Center would be an unmistakable (and unmissable) indicator. (The "highlight" on the Play/Pause button is especially hard to confirm when one has Rubylith over the Laptop Screen. I unfortunately learned this the hard way while thinking that I was "Cooling" the LiveView Sensor in between AVI Captures of the recent Jovian Triple Transit of 1/24. I got some rather "Warm" AVI Captures towards the middle of this multi-hour Event...)
  11. Planetary AVI recording can be an intense and CPU hungry process. The native planetary recording in BackyardEOS and BackyardNIKON uses a commercial encoder to create the AVI movie files. However, the encoder may prove to be to much on some computer configuration and in some cases may not even complete the video encoding BackyardEOS and BackyardNIKON both have a built-in alternative which takes less CPU. This alternative is VirtualDub. VirtualDub is free! I'm not able to -package- VirtualDub part of the BackyardEOS and BackyardNIKON installers due to it's GNU General Public License. However, if you download VirtualDub yourself and follow the instructions below, the planetary recording feature in both BackyardEOS and BackyardNIKON will use VirtualDub instead of its native commercial encoder. 1) Download VirtualDub 32-bits (x86). 2) Open the VirtualDub ZIP folder. 3) Copy VirtualDub.exe and VDub.exe files in your BackyardTEMP download folder. The default location is "My Pictures\BackyardTEMP\download\". 4) That is it. You are now using VirtualDub to encode your AVI. Hope this helps,
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