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Andante_2

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  1. Thanks for responding, Planetary Imaging Pre-Processor (freeware) can combine *.NEF (i.e., *.RAW) files into an AVI movie. Still, I heartily dislike doing this because it cycles the camera mirror way, WAY too much. Changing the iso and "shutter speed" does affect the brightness of the image on the Live View feed. So ... better to have a lower iso balanced with a higher "shutter speed," even if the "shutter speed" is notional: the important thing is to get the brightness of the planet correct. Right, I want to extend my "movie" over a longer time to better capture the changing seeing (which also oscillates over a few seconds between slightly poorer and better). I agree, basically, there is no way to change the "shutter speed" using the Live View modality, only to space out the frames that are collected. Thx much, Don
  2. Thanks for the quick response, OK, so the download rate of LiveView frames is "controlled" only by the diameter of the data firehose. In my case, the data rate is ~92 fps of 640 x 424 pixels per each frame. This means I am grossly oversampling my desired integration interval of ~1/5 to 1/50 s (depending upon the planet). Given that I can download in one burst only 2000 or so frames, and that concatenating smaller *.avi files into a single longer one requires 3rd party S/W I don't have, I am limited to 2000 fr/image. Oversampling reduces the number of "different" images, so that say, at 1/10th s integration time and 1/100th s frame capture time, I would reduce independent images by a factor of x10 to an equivalent stack of 200 images. Here are some possible fixes, and I'd like you opinion: (1) jack up the iso, perhaps to 3200 or even 6400. Assuming 13-bit significant data at iso=200, I would lose a factor of 2^5 = 32 dynamic range at iso=6400 BUT preserve 13 - 5 = 8 bits of full-well dynamic range, which is the bit width of a *.jpg pixel anyway. However, I am unlikely to fill the well, so I may end up with only something like six bits, or a dynamic range of a factor of 64 ... not good, (2) get an older, slower downlink somehow, (3) perhaps (and I need your advice here), readout the entire frame instead of using the 5x option. Hopefully, this would slow down the downlink frame rate by ... a factor of as much as (depending upon the binning and thus resolution loss) x25? 'Trouble is, I'd lose resolution, right? (4) Simply take a bunch of short exposure *.NEF images and combine them in Registax6. This cycles the mirror and kinda beats up the camera. I hate this option. Your thoughts, Don
  3. Hello, This question refers to a D5600 body and BYN v2.1.0 using Planetary Mode and 5x Live View. When recording using 5x Live View, BYN and my computer (2018 Apple Air, dual boot w/Windows 10, Thunderbolt port) are downloading frames at a rate of ~100 fps, actually 91.8 fps or some such. This is indeed what is recorded within the *.avi file, EXCLUSIVE OF THE SHUTTER SETTING. For example, a 600 frame collection at 1/10 s integration time should require 60s of clock time plus a bit of additional time for downloading each subframe window. However, the actual collection is complete in ~ 600 frames / 100 fps = 6s! I can only conclude that Live View is being sampled at ~100 fps regardless of the shutter time. This means the same actual frame (which is integrating over 1/10th s) is being displayed by Live View and captured into *.jpg files (which are subsequently compiled into an *.avi movie) multiple times per actual camera integration (i.e., shutter "open") interval. Some background follows.... The iso level appears to be properly set within BYN because the planetary image brightens or darkens as appropriate within the Live View window of BYN. The same is true for the shutter time setting: increase the shutter time and the Live View image brightens, as it should. Take my previous example: if BYN is sampling the Live View stream at, say, 100 fps (or directly reading it out at that rate), I am essentially collecting 10 of the same images for each 1/10th s exposure. I obviously want to know how to collect a single Live View frame per camera integration time. For what it is worth, and this may not be relevant: the download rate of ~100 fps is the same whether or not I turn the manual movie mode "on" or "off" in the BYN settings block. The difference here is that, with manual "off," the camera seems to set it's own iso and shutter speed, and the images are often overexposed. So ... I turn manual "on." Thank you in advance, Don
  4. Hello, ... and thanks for the useful suggestion re: VirtualDub. After several days of thick smoke due to wildfires nearby, I was finally able to try it out. It seems to work. Thx, Don
  5. Thnak you. I will try this. BTW, I noticed a large number of planet images waiting to be processed into an *.avi file in BackyardTEMP. I continue to suspect the process to encode *.avi files indeed sometimes overwhelmed a resource and triggered interrupt(s), which is what your previous post suggests. We'll see if VirtualDub works better. Best, Don
  6. dammit, it did it again: "keyes" --> keys
  7. Hi, Sorry, I hate it when Safari "corrects" my sentence. s/b "I keep toggling the keyes and ...."
  8. Hi, I've been having the same issue, both with BYN v2.1.0 and it's immediate predecessor. I am using an Apple Air (2018) with 512Gbyte SSD (fast) running Windows 10 in Bootcamp mode. Also, when I click on "frame and focus," BYN will sometimes divert back to "imaging mode." I keep toggling the legs and after awhile both issues resolve, and I can get on with collecting data. Best, Don
  9. Hello, Per "astroman133's" suggestion, I downloaded v2.1.0 and set "Background/Worker" to "enable." Otherwise, all HW and configuration settings are as I specified in the first post. I'm still having the same problem, no change. I've noticed the following: --500 frame *.avi-s seem to download with no problem, --1000 frame *.avi downloads can have one of three outcomes: (1) the file downloads correctly to my HD, (2) the file--weirdly--gets downloaded to a directory BYN creates on my laptop's C: SSD, or (3) the *.avi file simply never downloads anywhere. If (1) or (2) happens, the write can take upwards of about a minute. Also, the BYN "bell" doesn't read if outcome #2 occurs, and --2000 frames: same outcome as for 1000 frames. If I had to guess, I think the write is creating a bottleneck for BYN. Somewhere within the BYN write library, an interrupt is generated and sometimes the *.avi file is written to the SSD instead of the internal disk, or sometimes no write at all occurs. Any more ideas? Thx, Don
  10. Thank you "astroman133," I am using BYN v2.0.10 and "Background/Worker" is not enabled. I will update my version and enable the latter but 'cannot get to it for a few days. I will report results. Don
  11. Hello, My BYN setup intermittently downloads longer (see below) *.avi files using Planetary Mode. The data collection and "memory" wheel in BYN both time out, there is a wait of some 20-60s, and then sometimes there is a download, sometimes not. This happens whether my camera is hooked directly to the "Thunderbolt" port on my dual-boot (here, Windows 10) Apple Air or whether I hook the camera through a Startech hub. My setup is as-follows: --Camera: D5600, either battery-powered or using AC adapter (no difference), --computer: Apple Air, running BYN in the Windows 10 environment, 2TB WD disk drive hooked either directly to computer using Thunderbolt port or using the hub (no difference), --iso and integration time settings make no difference, --number of frames in *.avi file (important): 500--always downloads, 1000--often downloads, 2000--sometimes downloads. What is going on and how can I get consistent downloads using long *.avi frames? Incidentally, it turns out to be difficult to merge *.avi frames, and hence my interest in fixing this. Thanks, Don
  12. Thank you for responding. After several hours' investigation, I found the solution (Nikon D5600 Reference Manual, pp 82-84). Locate and press the button labeled "i" on the back of the camera, locked just to the right of the viewfinder. Up will come a menu for "Image quality." You will see two rows of five square buttons. Use the four-microswitch button (the round one with "OK" in the middle) to toggle to the lower row, second button from the left. Press it and select "MF" for manual focus. This will enable the shutter. Indeed, one must now manually focus, say on a bright star, and tape is a nice idea. Best, Don
  13. I have greatly enjoyed Backyard Nikon 2.0.10 (Premium Edition) with my Nikon D5600 attached in various configurations to my telescope for several months. However, when I try with either one of two Nikon telephoto lenses (DX 70-300 mm or DX VR 18-55 mm) attached, always in manual "M" mode, I receive the following error message on the camera screen: "Subject too dark." When using BN, the exposure will begin but the exposure will not read out. Instead, the exposure hangs, and I must "abort," which takes a few tens of seconds to accomplish. So what am I doing wrong? Must I have something relatively bright in the frame, or is there a workaround/switch somewhere so that I can use these lenses for astrophotography? I realize this is a S/W forum but I am certain others have run into this problem. I can find nothing in the Nikon documentation. Thank you, Don
  14. Thank you for replying. It will take me a few days to access a "straight" (i.e., non-iMac) Wintel computer w/Windows 10. Meanwhile, I was able to record images onto an SD card installed in the D5500. Also, I have a second, shorter USB-to-D5500 cable that I tried with zero success. 'Couple of additional notes: (1) this is clearly not a power-related issue since behavior is the same whether I use a charged-up battery or the plug-in battery replacement and (2) everything else on the camera seems to work fine. So I think I am down to two possibilities: (1) as you suggest, there is something funny about the BootCamp/Windows 10 device handling. BTW, I don't believe BootCamp is a VM per se but there is an overhead layer of S/W support for Windows 10 on the iMac or ... worse ... (2) the USB port electronics on the D5500 are damaged and not functional. Unfortunately, #2 would seem to be supported by one additional datum: that the D5500 would not show up as a device on iOS either. Remember that the Nikon is spec'd to be able to download images to iOS using a USB port. I'll try a "pure" Windows machine but I fear #2 is the reason. I suppose that is what I get for buying "used." 'Guess at the least I have an OK "broad spectrum modified" camera for general use (sigh). We'll see. Thx, Don
  15. Hello, I just purchased Backyard Nikon in order to take astrophotos with my Nikon D5500. (1) The camera: This is a used camera body I purchased, and then removed the IR filter myself. The camera itself appears to work fine: the screen, the shutter, etc. I reset the Reset Shutter Settings and reset the Reset Custom Settings. I then selected ISO 800, manual control, and "Bulb" shutter setting. I selected RAW images (no jpeg). I verified that "WiFi" is OFF. The camera still works fine after these changes. However, I note that when the camera is connected via USB to the computer that the shutter "freezes." It unfreezes when I disconnect the USB cable, (2) The computer: I have an iMac Air with a dual-boot Windows 10 system running on BootCamp. There are two USB-C ports, and I use adapters to connect this up either to USB 2.0 or USB 3.0 devices. One of the USB ports is presently connected to a USB Hub using a USB-C to USB 2.0/3.0 adapter, and I can see my ZWO ASI120MM just fine in the "devices" list in Device Manager. This guide camera also works fine on the screen using either port, (3) D5500-to-USB connection. I connected the D5500 directly (no hub) to the remaining USB-C port on the iMac. I used a 4' cable and the aforementioned USB-C to USB 2.0/3.0 adapter. I switched the USB-C connections (the hub works just fine on either port) and ... still no appearance of the D5500 in the "devices" list. I tried wiggling the USB cable on both ends and ... nada. So far then: (1) the camera appears to be working on its own, (2) both USB-C hubs on the iMac/Windows 10 computer are working, (3) wiggling the USB cable gently at the Nikon connector has no effect BUT ... using Device Manager I do not see the D5500 anywhere. ... help! Thanks, Don
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