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hefy_jefy last won the day on April 30

hefy_jefy had the most liked content!

About hefy_jefy

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    Red Giant
  1. Just what I was looking for, thank you! Geoff
  2. hefy_jefy

    Dither settings

    Can somebody explain the significance of the two Dither settings in BYE? We have "Dither aggressiveness" and "Settle dither at". Also while the dither is taking place random numbers are displayed? I understand (I think) what dithering does and the need for a "calm down" period. I have always used the default settings, but it would be nice to understand the significance of these numbers. Geoff
  3. Useful information thank you! Geoff
  4. Been using BYE for several years with my Canon EOS Rebel SL1 and its working well. The question I have is where is the temperature reading taken from, and what would be the normal range? I noticed the other evening that the temperature was around 120F and wondered if I should be switching the camera off between sessions because I guess the warmer it gets the noisier the imagery will be? Thanks for any info, Geoff
  5. Yes, had the same problem. Uninstall the previous version and delete the old folder in \Program Files, there's some stuff left behind. Worked fine second time around, also it remembers your key.
  6. OK - yes dug down into the options and came across LENR - it was set to Auto - so its now OFF. That would explain why it was taking twice a long, although I must say the photo that it produced was not bad! Now I also found an option called "High ISO speed noise reduction" - that was set to High, options are Low, Standard, High and OFF. Since I was using ISO 200 for my 20 min exposure I suppose this won't matter too much but might slow things down? Thanks for this, having now looked back at the manual (duh!), I see that these items are mentioned - I just never realized exactly what the impact would be! Geoff
  7. having just sorted out the polar alignment on my mount I am venturing into some long (20min) exposures with the Canon SL1 (Rebel). I was wondering about the length of time it takes actually get the image from the camera and download it. I have not measured it accurately but it seems to take almost as long to transfer the image as it does to make the exposure. The display shows "busy" for ages - what's actually going on during this period? Its there a way speed things up? Is this a function of the camera or my (rather old) PC? Geoff
  8. hefy_jefy

    Windows 10

    Ran Stellarium with the scope function via a serial port, no problem. The only issue I have so far is that on my elderly laptop Dell Latitude 630 there are no OpenGL Windows 10 drivers for the Intel Graphics 965. W10 installs a pretty good MS driver by default. The latest version of Stellarium requires OpenGL drivers so I had to drop back one version of Stellarium. Geoff
  9. hefy_jefy

    Standard Deviation

    One of the filename options in BYE is <std dev>. Where does this information originate? As far as I can tell its not in the EXIF data, does BYE compute it? Geoff
  10. hefy_jefy

    Windows 10

    Working just fine here after the MS update from, Windows 8.1
  11. Yes I just wondered - indeed you can do it from the Camera...
  12. Not sure if this is even in the Canon SDK but it would be great if the CCD screen could be turned off or shifted to dark red anytime EOS is connected to the camera? Geoff
  13. Aha! Of course, its easy to forget that what we see in Live View (and what is written to the .AVI) is the result of the so called "Exposure Sim" feature of the camera... Thanks all clear now, Geoff
  14. First, many thanks for the full video demo, great stuff, most useful and not just about BYE... One question: I now understand the planetary mode much better and I think it would be true to say that what you see in the live view screen is exactly what gets written to the AVI / JPG imagery. You can change the exposure by altering both the "shutter speed" and / or the ISO value. Does it make any difference in this mode which you choose? For example slowing the shutter by one "stop" is equivalent to increasing the ISO value by one "stop" the overall exposure is the same. In old fashioned film photography the faster ISO values resulted in larger grain size and hence poorer resolution, I doubt this is true of modern DSLRs? Geoff
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