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aamiet

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  1. OK, I understand about the temp folder. I also do some coding (in Visual Studio) and I understand why you need a guaranteed folder to store data. I also understand making changes to a program can cause unintended consequences in other locations. Kudos for getting the Backgroundworker running on a separate thread (I assume), doing that with a 32 bit application is not easy at all (I've tried, and failed). However, I don't think that saving a file with a long filename should take any longer than saving with a short file name. Most of the filename should be known from the start of the capture (the program already spend 2-3 seconds determining frame rate so there is ample time to work out the file names), camera settings are known prior, it's just the actual start time needs to be added just before capture and that currently doesn't change for the whole capture. Of course it would be nicer if the time incremented in the individual file names during capture, but that takes (a little) more processing to ask the computer for the time. Obviously the counter increases from frame to frame, but this increases anyway. Computers these days are fast, as far as I can see the main bottleneck to the whole process is getting the throughput from the camera above 20 fps Thanks again for your help, this program has made my imaging session much easier and I wouldn't be without it. Andrew
  2. Thanks for this, appreciate the quick turnaround on this one. Two questions - why use the temp folder at all, saving directly to the save folder means no extra work on the hard drive ? Second, why not save the file with the long name in the first place? Is there a reason why you just make it a number? Thanks again, Andrew
  3. OK, I understand, thanks for this. It does appear that the files are being copied, not moved, as the File Creation time is different for the raw files kept in the Temp folder to the ones transferred to the download folder. See the images below, I had a few files left over in the temp folder that didn't get removed after being transferred to the download folder. Same "File modified" time, different "File Creation" time. Simply moving them over should keep the same creation time, copying them changes that.
  4. I just checked - BackgroundWorker Enabled is not checked by default - I have just checked it on now. I'm taking some dummy data now and watching Task Manager. BYEOS is not using more than about 200 MB while running, and it appears the BackgroundWorker is transferring the files. With the BackgroundWorker on it's taking longer to transfer the files, but it seems to be doing the job well, I've taken 40,000 frames with no problems. Why is the default option to have this off? The user manual does not discuss most (if any) of the options in the Advanced Settings area, could this be enhanced to include a description of what these options do? For instance, what does Processor Affinity mean? It would also be great if the Planetary mode had a histogram feature, so I could check that I was collecting images at the correct brightness. It doesn't need to be enabled during capture, but just to check at the beginning would be nice. It would also be great if you could keep the same date and time for the original temp file (ie 000001.jpg) as for the transferred file (test_Tv115s_200iso_1024x688_20190622-13h00m56s-loop03_000001,jpg). That way I would know for sure what the actual fps was from the date/time for the last frame compared to the first. I would also like to be able to change the file name in planetary mode, you can do it for normal imaging, just not for planetary. Sounds like I'm complaining a lot, but I do think that BYEOS is a great program, and recommend it when I can to other astronomers. If the BackgroundWorker feature fixes my current issues with downloading, that would go a long way to keep me happy :). Thanks, Andrew
  5. Hi there, moving the files might be low overhead in terms of cpu and memory, but my hard disk runs at 100% during the download and transfer process and might struggle. I can understand why you use the temp folder for the avi creation, but not for jpg only. The temp folder is on the same partition as the download folder. Why 10,000? From experience, this is what you need for good imaging. People with dedicated planetary cameras use many more. One of my examples is attached. Andrew
  6. There just seems to be a lot of extra disk activity involved with saving the instantaneous jpgs to the temp folder, then transferring them to the "download" folder with new names while downloading the next set of files for the new loop to the temp folder again. Would it not be possible to simply save the jpgs directly to the "download" folder and not worry about the temp folder when saving jpgs only? This would certainly improve throughput and put less work on to the hard drive. Just a thought. Andrew
  7. This is repeating. It happens quite often, I have been reducing the throttle setting recently because I thought I could increase the fps rate by setting a lower value, but it's currently on 50 ms. It would be good if you had more detail in the User Guide about what all the settings do. Thanks, Andrew.
  8. Hi there, I'm starting to run into problems when using BackyardEOS 3.1.17.27056 on my Windows 10 computer with my Canon 700D when using planetary mode. I have found that after recording around 30,000 to 40,000 frames BYE appears to have memory problems and I'm losing data. Sometimes this is recoverable from the temp folder, sometimes not. Restarting BYE fixes the problem, but I need to set up my imaging parameters again, not a huge issue, but a bit annoying. My workflow consists of taking 2500 frames at a time in 4 loops to give me my 10,000 frames. I save the data as jpgs as it takes too long to save to avi. The first 10,000 run smoothly, the 2nd is usually good also, but by the 3rd or 4th time through I am starting to get the error below and collection stops. Collection was modified after the enumerator was instantiated. I realise I'm running BYE pretty hard, but my images are coming out well with this workflow. Is there anything I'm doing wrong here? Any way to flush the memory (or whatever) to fix this issue? I have attached the log file if you need it. Thanks, Andrew logfile-[20190621-19h32m57s651]-[22904]-2019-06-21.txt
  9. Hi there, thanks for your comment. It's no real secret how to turn these sub-frame images into the photos you see on the web. After waiting for a cloudless night, I set up my Celestron 6" SCT to track Saturn. I used BYEOS to take 2000 jpg images (sub-frames) of the planet in planetary mode with my Canon 700D, using a 2x Barlow lens and 5X Liveview zoom. I then stacked the best frames (I found 50% worked best for these subs) in AutoStakkert, and then used Registax to sharpen and de-noise the image. A little brightening, de-noising and colour saturation in Photoshop Elements (but not too much 😃) got me the final result. I must admit that I was absolutely amazed with the final image, especially considering what the original images looked like. More of my images are on my Cloudy Nights page https://www.cloudynights.com/gallery/member/306923-tulloch/ There is a great workflow on the web here, note that he uses a mono camera and multiple filters, I find a DSLR camera works just fine. I also don't use WinJupos, AutoStakkert has a derotation mode that seems to work OK. http://www.thelondonastronomer.com/it-is-rocket-science/2018/6/7/a-quick-guide-to-planetary-imaging Andrew
  10. Thanks for you responses, I'm aware that there are no "best" settings, it will depend on the target, atmosphere, camera etc etc. I guess I was more interested if anyone knew how LiveView works exactly so I can optimise one setting (ISO vs shutter speed) over another for best results. I was able to turn 2000 underexposed, blurry, grainy sub-frames of Saturn into a pretty good result from my 6" SCT (see images attached), just wondering if I can do better. was turned into this ---> Thanks, Andrew
  11. Hi there, I've been using BYE Classic v3.1.17 for a while and am quite happy with how its all going. My interest lies in getting the "best" settings when taking image bursts of the planets while in Planetary mode. Live view works fine and I am able to adjust the ISO and shutter speed to give me an image that looks OK, but I'd be interested in knowing exactly how live view works to give me the best images. Questions such as: - How bright should my sub-frames be? Since there's no histogram display it's hard to tell if I'm over or underexposing. - If my subs are too dark, should I increase ISO or decrease shutter speed? Does it matter which one I choose? Will increasing the ISO increase noise, will decreasing shutter speed increase motion blur, or are these parameters merely virtual (ie live view is updated at a constant 30fps by the camera, ISO is just a gain value) and they both have the same effect to increase the signal (and noise) equally? - Has anyone experimented with different USB2 (or USB3) cables to improve fps throughput to the computer? It is possible to buy "high quality" USB2 cables with extra shielding, gold plated connectors, thicker wires etc, has anyone tried these and has it made any difference? Thanks, Andrew
  12. Hi there, thanks for your answers. I assumed the problem was with my computer (not BYE) but I was just wondering if you had seen this issue before and had a suggestion. I was hoping to avoid having to get into the BIOS settings, but I'll have a look now. Thanks again. Andrew
  13. Hi there, I have the Classic version of BYEOS 3.1.17 and I've noticed that when I connect by 700D to my laptop computer running on mains power, I can get around 20fps running in Planetary mode (fairly standard). However, when I run on battery power, the fps rate drops to around 17 fps. I've changed the power settings so the cpu runs at 100% on battery power, and all the others setting I could find to match when running on power, everything I can think of really to no effect. Have you noticed this before, and how can I fix it? Also, it would be really great to get a histogram view in planetary mode, just so I could check to see if I am using the best ISO/shutter speed for optimum results. Thanks, Andrew
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