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  1. Hi there, thanks for your comment. It's no real secret how to turn these sub-frame images into the photos you see on the web. After waiting for a cloudless night, I set up my Celestron 6" SCT to track Saturn. I used BYEOS to take 2000 jpg images (sub-frames) of the planet in planetary mode with my Canon 700D, using a 2x Barlow lens and 5X Liveview zoom. I then stacked the best frames (I found 50% worked best for these subs) in AutoStakkert, and then used Registax to sharpen and de-noise the image. A little brightening, de-noising and colour saturation in Photoshop Elements (but not too much 😃) got me the final result. I must admit that I was absolutely amazed with the final image, especially considering what the original images looked like. More of my images are on my Cloudy Nights page https://www.cloudynights.com/gallery/member/306923-tulloch/ There is a great workflow on the web here, note that he uses a mono camera and multiple filters, I find a DSLR camera works just fine. I also don't use WinJupos, AutoStakkert has a derotation mode that seems to work OK. http://www.thelondonastronomer.com/it-is-rocket-science/2018/6/7/a-quick-guide-to-planetary-imaging Andrew
  2. Thanks for you responses, I'm aware that there are no "best" settings, it will depend on the target, atmosphere, camera etc etc. I guess I was more interested if anyone knew how LiveView works exactly so I can optimise one setting (ISO vs shutter speed) over another for best results. I was able to turn 2000 underexposed, blurry, grainy sub-frames of Saturn into a pretty good result from my 6" SCT (see images attached), just wondering if I can do better. was turned into this ---> Thanks, Andrew
  3. Hi there, I've been using BYE Classic v3.1.17 for a while and am quite happy with how its all going. My interest lies in getting the "best" settings when taking image bursts of the planets while in Planetary mode. Live view works fine and I am able to adjust the ISO and shutter speed to give me an image that looks OK, but I'd be interested in knowing exactly how live view works to give me the best images. Questions such as: - How bright should my sub-frames be? Since there's no histogram display it's hard to tell if I'm over or underexposing. - If my subs are too dark, should I increase ISO or decrease shutter speed? Does it matter which one I choose? Will increasing the ISO increase noise, will decreasing shutter speed increase motion blur, or are these parameters merely virtual (ie live view is updated at a constant 30fps by the camera, ISO is just a gain value) and they both have the same effect to increase the signal (and noise) equally? - Has anyone experimented with different USB2 (or USB3) cables to improve fps throughput to the computer? It is possible to buy "high quality" USB2 cables with extra shielding, gold plated connectors, thicker wires etc, has anyone tried these and has it made any difference? Thanks, Andrew
  4. Hi there, thanks for your answers. I assumed the problem was with my computer (not BYE) but I was just wondering if you had seen this issue before and had a suggestion. I was hoping to avoid having to get into the BIOS settings, but I'll have a look now. Thanks again. Andrew
  5. Hi there, I have the Classic version of BYEOS 3.1.17 and I've noticed that when I connect by 700D to my laptop computer running on mains power, I can get around 20fps running in Planetary mode (fairly standard). However, when I run on battery power, the fps rate drops to around 17 fps. I've changed the power settings so the cpu runs at 100% on battery power, and all the others setting I could find to match when running on power, everything I can think of really to no effect. Have you noticed this before, and how can I fix it? Also, it would be really great to get a histogram view in planetary mode, just so I could check to see if I am using the best ISO/shutter speed for optimum results. Thanks, Andrew
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