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lodrigj

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  1. lodrigj

    Nikon Z6

    Guylain, I downloaded the latest RC and it seems to work well with the Z6. And you have lens-drive focusing now! Excellent! Jerry
  2. BYN 2.0.20 Settings > FIlename Template The example filename that is displayed at the bottom ends with the cr2 extension. It probably should be .nef for Nikon. Jerry
  3. Hi Guylain, I used ASCOM Dithering tonight with no guiding with a 105mm lens and it worked very well. It's really nice if your lens doesn't resolve most of the PE of the mount in short exposures where the dithering time would be more than the exposure time. Really nice. Thanks! Jerry
  4. When you get a chance. By next new moon would be nice, but I think I have a work around right now by not guiding at all and just dithering with ASCOM. That works great for the 15 second exposures under full moon, but I might need to guide for longer exposures under dark skies. I'm testing a lot of new stuff right now, so I'm learning and running across a lot of stuff. Thanks, Jerry
  5. BYE 3.1.17 has the same problem as BYN 2.0.10. Settings > Dither > Dither every x Images Set to 40 images Apply Save Go back to the setting and it stays at 10. Doesn't seem to want to accept any digits higher than 10. Someone ask me why I want to dither every 40 images instead of every 10... Jerry
  6. Hi Guys, Thanks for the fix Guylain. The bug really wasn't that big of a deal to me, I'm really kind of just messing around right now trying to debug a new setup. I was shooting 250 x 30 seconds over three nights in my light polluted driveway at f/1.4 at ISO 100. I was shooting 30 seconds because 10 second exposures would have caused too many dithers. And even 30 seconds had the histogram farther to the right than I normally aim for. I probably could have shot 10 second exposures and easily been sky-noise limited. But then I would have had 750 frames, and since I couldn't dither every 40 frames like I wanted to, I had to push the individual sub exposure to have less dithers. I would probably only had 250 x 10s frames (instead of 750) if I dithered every frame throwing away 2/3 of the potential signal I could have gathered. So I had dithering on at 10 frames, or every 300 seconds. But because I was shooting with a wide angle, I needed a really big dither, and it took a long time. And I know about the random dither without guiding, but if I don't guide, I can see star elongation and trailing even at 30 seconds because of the crazy resolution of the new 75mm f/1.4 astrograph that I just got. And when I get my new full-frame camera (yes, this astrograph will cover full frame at f/1.4) with pixels half the size that I have now so I can get closer to correctly sampling the crazy resolution this lens can deliver, I'm going to see this tracking problem even more. So I have to guide. And I don't want to waste half the dark sky time trying to dither every 30 seconds. It would be great though to have someone run the equation as to whether you get a higher s/n with more frames actually gathering signal, or pattern-noise reduction with more dithers but a GIANT loss of signal, because the dither overhead is so high and you then have only half the lights. The true s/n increase comes from stacking more lights, not from dithering. Right? You might get a little increase in s/n from kappa sigma rejection with dithering, but I think the s/n increase is much bigger from more signal, maybe by an order of magnitude? I'd actually like someone with more math skills than me to actually run this equation and see if my gut feeling is correct. :-) Because the light pollution shot noise would be the biggest noise term, and this is more complicated than my math-challenged brain can successfully calculate. I can instantly calculate a 20% tip in my head when presented the bill at a restaurant (Simply double the total and move the decimal point one place to the left). But that's about it. Now, if there was a way to stop guiding, and then do a really quick, big, random dither, and then go back to autoguiding, that would be perfect for my particularly peculiar setup, but I don't know how to do this with PHD and BYE. But I've been out of the game for more than a year with health issues, so I'm just kind of catching back up seriously. So I apologize if there's a way to do this that I'm not aware of. Jerry
  7. BYN 2.0.10 on Win10 Pro with Nikon D5300 Settings > Dither > Dither every x Images Set to 40 images Apply Save Go back to the setting and it stays at 10. Doesn't seem to want to accept any digits higher than 10. I tried closing BYN and restarting, still goes back to 10 It just won't stay set. Jerry
  8. Using BYE3.1.11 in Windows 10 Enterprise version 1607 build 14393.1358 64bit BYE locks up hard, requiring Task Manager to end the task if MLU is programed. The exposure series completes successfully but after the last exposure, the mirror stays locked up and BYE crashes hard. Exposures were all 1/1000th second with no pause between frames. MLU set to 1. 4 exposures, each on their own line. Same crash with two different cameras. Same crash if you put all 4 exposures on one line. Same crash if you use an MLU of 4 seconds. Even stranger behavior if you program in 5 second pause for each frame in addition to 5 second MLU... Same crash if you also program in a 5 second pause between frames. This is with the Canon215 driver for both the 700D and 600D. Minimum MLU is 3 seconds even if it is set to 1 or 2. This must be intentional programing of BYE because MLU of 1 or 2 results in an MLU of 1 second and 2 seconds respectively in Astro Photography Tool (APT). Also, the crashes using MLU in BYE must be a bug because MLU works fine in APT with no crashes or lockup with exactly the same camera, USB cable and laptop. Interestingly, in Solar Eclipse Maestro on a Mac, you can even program in a 1/2 second MLU and it works. Testing all of this for the eclipse. Jerry
  9. Hi Guylain, It's not a big deal at all. Thanks, Jerry
  10. Noticed a curious little bug in both BYE and BYN. If you adjust the brightness of the image to make it darker with the - not sure exactly what it's called, but it kind of looks like the histogram adjustment in Photoshop - and then rotate an image 180 degrees, the image displayed will get darker. And it will get darker every subsequent rotation. Jerry
  11. lodrigj

    BYN D5300 Notes

    Hi Everyone, I just started using BYN v2.0.1 with a new Nikon D5300 and here are some notes and observations I made... in no particular order... and please note these are not complaints about BYN at all. Honestly, I don't know how Guylain deals with Nikon and the changes from camera model to camera model, and the Nikon SDKs. The error message on a failed connect refers to Canon camera numbering 40D, 60D, 80D "use the app in Windows Vista SP2 compatibility mode" and "40Dx, 50D 70D and D3### are not supported". With Nikons, the D comes before the number as in the D3### listed. No big deal, but it might be confusing to some people. In Planetary mode, I'm getting 30fps for full frame and only 5 fps at 5x. I'm certain this caused in the camera as live view slows down terribly on the back of the camera when magnified even when BYN is not connected. The display in BYN seems blurry in Live View, probably because of the JPEG compression - the JPEG live view files are only 33k. Again, this is caused by the camera and not BYN. The live view planetary resolution at 5x is, unfortunately, not even close to 1:1 (I just definitively tested this). Combined with the extremely high JPEG compression used, this makes the D5300 pretty bad (as in basically unusable) for high-resolution planetary imaging. You can't control lens focus with a Nikon autofocus lens through BYN. I guess this is not available in the SDK? In BYN in "Main Imaging Mode" , AV is available under "shutter", but it doesn't work. Neither does Program. Time goes into spinning "busy" icon in BYN at top right, but nothing happens and abort doesn't work, you have to kill the program. Sometimes BYN does not write the image file to the camera, because it switches on its own, and without warning, from writing to PC + Camera to just PC. ... YES I'M SURE it was set to PC + Camera initially. This happened for sure in studio tests done inside today. This also happened to me the other night under the stars, and I liked to poop my pants when I could not find 2 hours worth of Horsehead exposures on the camera's memory card. Luckily they were written to the PC. But there's some weird behavior going on here. Jery
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