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About jcinpv

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    John R Carter Sr

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    Paulden, AZ
  1. Here’s a challenge. Create a software “fix” that will suspend an astronomy photo session while a satellite is coming into the field of view.
  2. If I have a sequence of exposures, say for taking Darks at different exposures, I want each set sequence number to start at 1. My experience is that if I change any parameter, say from Dark to Light or from one target to another target, the sequence does not reset to 1. So when taking any set of exposures, if ANY parameter other than the number of exposures changes, I want the sequence number to reset to 1. Stopping and starting a plan? I thought that what I am doing when I change any parameter from one shoot to the next, such as the ISO or the target name and then click on Start Capture. So what do you mean by stopping and starting a plan? The only way I know to reset the sequence number is to quit BYE and start it up again. Not even the Reset button resets the sequence number. It just clears the parameters back to default. I'm using version 3.1.17 as of 3/16/2019.
  3. I really would like to be able to reset the sequence number when changing from one target to another, or from one frame type to another, or when I change the target folder. John C.
  4. I know I can select a folder in which to put a file, but I really want to have the frame type, target name, and date as folders created on the fly. My organization is like this: <parent>\<frametype>\<target>\<date>\<filename> There's a lot more to it than that. I have several cameras and several telescopes and I use other apps for taking images than just BYE, so <parent> folder gets a bit complicated since I want to organize my images accordingly. Essentially, I just want to set the <parent> folder in Settings and let BYE create the folders <frametype>, <target>, and <date> for me. This can be done with other apps. It makes it easier for me to be able to organize my photos and be a lot more automatic with a session. It would seem that a special character in Settings for the filename could be used to tell BYE to create a folder using the enclosed name: %<frametype>%<target>%<date>%<target>_<exposure>s_iso<ISO>_ Or just simply recognize that '\' is to be used to create a folder using the preceding name: <frametype>\<target>\<date>\<target>_<exposure>s_iso<ISO>_ John C
  5. Now, regarding the histogram question, here's what I get using PI Statistics on my last set of Flats with the Canon 60Da (LPS filter installed): ISO 800, 1/100s, Av. The setup is with a double layer of T-shirt over the aperture and using an LED panel of lights covered with a diffuser. Acceptable?
  6. Here's my latest attempt at M3. All Flats, Bias, Darks, and Lights were taken at ISO 800. Canon 60Da. Imaged with BYE, guided with PHD2. This is only partially processed with PI.
  7. Argh! Phil, you're right! I didn't notice that the images weren't showing up. Doesn't matter. I've got my 60Da installed now and had to take a whole new set of Flats and Bias. Does the ISO setting apply to Bias as well?
  8. Thanks Phil. I will be using the 60Da starting later this week. Thanks for the suggestion on the ISO. I use PixInsight exclusively for processing (at the bleeding edge of learning how to use it), BYE for imaging, and PHD2 for guiding. When imaging, I take 5 Darks every 25 images. Images are typically between 30s and 120s depending on the target. In one article I read, the sweet spot for ISO for the Canon was given as 1100. I've been tinkering with different levels from 400 to 3200. Lower levels mean longer exposures, of course. My last run was at 1000 for 120s. Kind of noisy.
  9. Phil: Thanks for the feedback. I understand now. But about Bias frames, in other places I have read that taking Bias with a Canon is unnecessary. Every little bit that comes out here seems to bring up another conflict with what I've read elsewhere. I'm going to wait until my 60Da with clip-in LPS filter arrives this week before continuing to acquire images.
  10. s3igell: You're right. I forgot that when the camera is Prime Focus on a telescope, aperture value is meaningless. Time value is the only factor, aside from where the histogram lies - left, center, or right. I'll have to take another look at the logic given for doing a 100 Flats. I know very little about math where photography is concerned. So I guess only my experiments will convince me. Science was established on duplication and replication. Thanks for the knock on the head. <grin>
  11. In almost every description I read about taking Flats, there is missing detail. The only thing consistent is to put the camera in AV mode and let the camera figure out the exposure time. In one place, I read that the aperture value should be wide open (lowest value), then adjust the time value to get the histogram centered. In another, it says to ensure that the camera stays on the telescope with the same focal length and orientation as with Lights (same orientation? really?). The method of taking Flats varies from 1) aiming the uncovered telescope at the sky at dusk or dawn when the sky is evenly illuminated (just exactly which shade of blue is best?), 2) aiming at a computer monitor with a white screen (hope you have a light-weight LED monitor for that), and 3) placing a T-shirt over the aperture and shining a white light into it (supposed only an LED light - it would have to be a big one for a 12" aperture). So what's wrong with covering the aperture with a T-shirt and aiming the telescope at the Sun? Can't get any better 'white light' than that! What seems most critical to me in this process is that the aperture should be wide open and the time value adjusted to place the histogram where you want it. So putting the camera mode in Manual, setting the aperture wide open first, and then adjusting the exposure seems to be the best method. Also, the position of the histogram has to be an important part of the process. The person who said to put the histogram in the center was a professional photographer also working the astronomy angle. That lends a great deal of credibility to his statement. Yet another photographer said to get as many Flats as possible, and 100 is better than 50 in his experience. To say that the histogram has to be as far right as possible seems to me to overexpose the image. If that is done, it also seems to me unlikely that any dust motes on the sensor will show up. Something for me to experiment with. If I get the dust motes, as I do when the histogram is centered, then it seems to me I've done the right thing. I'll be back after getting some more Flats using various methods.
  12. Phil: That's very interesting that you say it's underexposed. Here's what the RAW image looks like without any processing (screen capture): Would you still call that underexposed?
  13. My last set of Flats was taken by letting BYE show me the histogram setting. So, I went out to take another set of Flats. This time doing it manually on the camera (60D) with the histogram near the center. The only difference between the two results in the unlinked stretched output (for PixInsight users, this will make sense) is that the latter appears to be a little brighter but is not significant in any way. Can you see any real difference? Old: New:
  14. My Win 7 runs Avast (free version). Never had a problem with it interfering with anything and it's always running. To complicate things, Win 7 is running as a guest OS under Parallels on a 17" MacBook Pro which is also running Sophos - another A/V program. When taking a series of images, downloading images to the computer is slow, and that means images are backing up in the pipeline while BYE is taking a series of images. That could be because the drive being accessed is attached to another computer on the LAN with access to the other computer by WiFi. Once I got PHD2 in the mix doing dithering, enough time elapses between images that each shot has completed the download before the next one is started. If anything interrupts the access to the download folder, it might hang BYE. There are similar reports like this in other topics here. The one solution for one person was to get a new computer. If you are running an old XP, that could be the problem.
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