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curlynerd

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  1. Rick: OK, missed the rhetorical question...:) As I said, I'll try both when I have a chance. I was so happy to have the T7i back, I dropped the 7D experimentation. I do appreciate the info and it matches what I was thinking for the most part. Chris
  2. Thanks for the answers, and here is some background: OTA: Explore Scientific ED80 Environment: With laptop, not using LCD, on AC power (5A Celestron) generally in the front of my property. HW: T7i generally (with CLS filter), bought used 7D when T7i was at Canon getting repaired, Starshoot for autoguide, StarSense for alignment after SharpCap Shooting SW: BYEOS, SharpCap for Polar Alignment (using StarShoot), PHD2 for autoguide, Stellarium for generally choosing target and moving to it. Post-Processing SW: DSS and Photoshop with Gradient Exterminator and Astro Tools. Sometimes experiment with Nebulosity as well. Registax for planetary, then Photoshop. Targets: 95% deep sky, 5% planetary So, I think that covers most of the questions. I will try to make time to capture the same target with both cameras to see if there's a noticeable difference, but I'm always curious to hear more experienced people's opinions as well. Thanks again, Chris.
  3. So, would you recommend the 7D over the T7i? I still have both and I respect your opinion. Chris
  4. Guylain: Guylain: Thanks for the quick response. I've got the photo settings pretty well dialed in, but thee T7i has other settings related to things like automatic Noise Reduction, etc., that I have all turned off. It was these types of settings I was referring to, like AF settings as well that seem to have an effect on BYEOS. All those pesky menu items!! The funny thing about Live View is that on my older 7D Live View doesn't have all of the "noise" that I see with the T7i. When I say noise I'm talking about what looks like artifacts moving around on the screen. "StarHD" does clean that up. I don't expect to see much as far as stars in Live View, except as you say that bright star used for focusing with the Bahtinov mask. Generally that's the only time I use Live view. Love your software. Simple capture from your BYEOS below with the ES ED80, T7i with CLS filter.
  5. I'm running BYEOS 3.1.17 and my Canon T7i/800D. First of all, I love BYEOS and it's taking wonderful shots, so no complaints at all. My question is about 2 things: 1) In Live View, I see quite a bit of noise moving around. I'm using my Laptop to connect with BYEOS. There's so much noise that it's difficult to see particular objects in the Live View unless I use Star-HD. This makes it challenging to focus using my bahtinov mask and is generally disconcerting. All the noise goes away when I take a photo, so it's only in Live View Frame and Focus that it's an issue. Is there some setting related to this? 2) What are the key settings to enable/disable for the T7i in BYEOS?
  6. Hi guys and thanks for the great responses. It turns out that there were 2 issues. First, with this camera being older than the T7i, I should have moved to bulb setting instead of manual. In addition, I had somehow changed that setting to force the serial connection. So after unchecking that option and moving to bulb, I was back in business. Thanks again, Chris
  7. I had to change from T7i to 7D, hopefully temporarily. The 7D will connect, do Frame and Focus, However, it will not Image . Setting is bulb in BYEOS and M on camera, When I start a capture, it starts, but never stops nor will it abort. It will do preview, but no image is shown or saved. I'm using the USB cable that came with the camera (actually the existing working one on the OTA first) but am getting a message that I need a serial cable as well. I see no connection (like on the 350D) for a serial cable. CameraUSB is selected .Capture works fine with EOS Utility Any help is appreciated. BinaryRivers.BackyardEOS.Start.Camera1.exe.user.config logfile-[20190126-00h29m01s822]-[13448]-2019-01-26.txt
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