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astroman133

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Posts posted by astroman133

  1. The left-most number is the position of the absolute focuser and the number in the center is the temperature, in degrees Celsius, of the focuser, if the focuser reports a temperature. The right-most number is only visible when you hover the mouse pointer over one of the movement buttons.  It is the amount that the position will be adjusted when that button is clicked.

     

    If you look closely you will see some vertical text labels beside the first two numbers.  They are "Absolute" and "Temperature".

  2. Your are the only person who has reported issues with BYE and Windows 10.

     

    In fact, as posted in this topic -- http://www.otelescope.com/index.php?/topic/1078-windows-10-and-bye/?view=getnewpost -- Guylain just finished testing the latest BYE with Windows 10 and experienced no issues.

     

    BTW, nobody calls the programs BackYardDSLR.  There is BYE and there is BYN.  Also, not sure what you mean by Microsoft, Canon, and Nikon getting in sync. All three vendors release things independently.

     

    If you have a BYE issue with Windows 10, perhaps you should post a new thread in the BYE forum and explain exactly how the software is not behaving as expected. You seemed to be saying that images captured with BYE are not downloaded and displayed on the screen and are not in the Download folder.

     

    Also I am not sure what you mean by "nor are images imported into the BYEOS image thumbnails/viewer screen". Can you explain exactly what you are trying to do and what you are seeing?  By import do you mean drag and drop images while on the Preview tab is not working?

     

    Thanks,

  3. $1000 may be a decent downpayment for a CCD camera, or for the high end Canon or Nikon DSLRs.  I spent closer to $5K for a QSI 583wsg with 8-position filter wheel, 7 Astrodon filters and an SBIG STi guide camera. So, if that is all you have to spend, I would stay in the DSLR realm and continue looking for a heads up comparison of Canon and Nikon prosumer cameras when used for AP.

     

    When cooled down to -10 degC my QSI is extremely low read noise with virtually no pattern noise (horizontal or vertical banding).

     

    I hope that BYE and BYN get autofocus capability before seeing BYCCD. I have no doubt that the user interface for BYCCD would be first rate, but there are already lots of apps for controlling CCD cameras, which are much simpler to control than DSLR's, IMO.

  4. First, the 20D is an older camera so you have to choose the camera group on the left before connecting. Then it will only work with a 32-bit version of Windows (see the Camera Support Grid), because there is no system-level driver on the 64-bit OS's.

     

    The 70D is fully supported with LiveView and Bulb exposures with only a USB cable on all versions of Windows since XP.  For the 70D you have to select the camera group on the right before connecting.

     

    If you have a 32-bit OS and are selecting the correct camera group when connecting but still won't connect, you should make sure that you are using a good USB cable.

     

    What version of Windows? 32-bit or 64-bit?

    Did you try to connect your cameras during the trial period?  Have you ever been able to connect?

  5. I misunderstood what you were saying in the previous post that I responded to.

     

    Perhaps I am wrong, but I do think that what Guylain is displaying is all of the data that is available from the LiveView stream in the main window. Then he is extracting a rectangular area of pixels that roughly corresponds to the zoom box and he is simply displaying those pixels in the other panel in BYN, and letting the GDI rendering engine scale them to fit. So it is the same pixels just displayed in a larger area (no more details).  What you are suggesting is that it may be possible to get that same rectangular region-of-interest area, but at a higher resolution, via an SDK call. That would be cool. I don't think that this is available from the EOS SDK.

     

    I don't regularly use a mask for focusing. I prefer the numeric metric, usually the HFD.  However, with my Canon, I have had no problem getting focus with a mask or with the HFD. I stopped using the mask when I discovered it was only confirming what the metric was telling me.I understand that the camera scales down the image to display on the LCD.  It is this scaled down image that BYE gets, and I assume BYN from a Nikon.  The data from a LiveView frame is not very bright, but still suitable for using a mask or metric to reilably focus.  I would assume that it is also possible with BYN, but it may be best for one of the BYN users to comment.

  6. I am not familiar with the Nikon SDKs so I don't know whether the LiveView image is available at a higher resolution that what BYN is displaying, 

     

    However, I would be pretty confident in saying that BYN is calculating the focus metric value based on the array of pixels that were downloaded from the camera, so however the image is zoomed would have no effect on the calculated result.

     

    If you zoom in enough on any image you will start to see pixelation. It is possible to mitigate that by processing (upsampling) the image.  This may be what the other camera control program is doing and while this would lead to a more pleasing image, it would affect the calculated star size when done on an astrophotography image. The difference between the displayed images could also be that the OSX is upsampling and Windows is not when displaying the image at a particular size.

  7. dts350z is correct. Using a DSLR for narrowband imaging will require very long exposures, since the filter is passing only a small fraction of the total light.

     

    There should be no other special considerations during capture. Except that if the filter is a clip-in filter, focusing can be a major pain.  You can get close to critical focus without the filter, then you have to dismount the camera, insert the filter, and remount the camera. You then should re-adjust the focus, but you need a star that is bright enough in the narrowband wavelength to focus on.  This most often means that you will not be able to use LiveView, but instead will have to take snap images for focusing.

     

    Your processing workflow will depend on how you intend to use the narrowband data. 

     

    Say that you are using a Hydrogen alpha (Ha) filter.  Since the Ha wavelength is deep in the red range, only the red pixels on you sensor will collect any photons. The values for the green and blue pixels will only have noise. Now you go through your normal stacking process (debayer, calibrate, normalize, grade, align, and combine are typical steps).  You will end up with a color (RGB) image, but only the red channel will have any data. So, what do you do now???

     

    The simplest thing is to extract the red channel data into a monochrome image. How you do that will depend on what app you are using.  You can then process and publish that monochrome image, or you could process it and re-combine it with other data in some way.  There are really several options.One possibility is  to combine Ha data with RGB data for the same target by aligning the Ha data with the RGB data and then layering the Ha data in as a luminance layer.  Another option is to replace the red data in the RGB image with the Ha data.

     

    One good source for how to combine Ha with RGB data is Photoshop Astronomy by R. Scott Ireland, published by Willmann-Bell.

     

    IMO, and with all of that said, I do not recommend shooting narrowband with a DSLR, or any one-shot color camera for that matter. Others will likely disagree, since just purchasing a filter is much cheaper than purchasing a CCD camera with a filter wheel, plus filters.

     

    In my above example, with an Ha filter, only 25% of the pixels (those with red filters) collect any data.  The debayering process then interpolates (makes up) red data for the green and blue pixels. Contrast that with a monochrome astroCCD camera where every pixel will collect the Ha data with a 16-bit data range, and you can bin 2x2 to increase the sensitivity.  It makes your processing much easier to create a satisfying image.

  8. I believe that what you are seeing is the designed behavior.  The image fragment in the Zoom Box window is the portion of the full image that is inside the white rectangle.  It is digitally zoomed because the size of the zoom box image is larger than the size of the white rectangle.  I believe that this is just how windows zooms an image to fill the size of the display frame.

     

    I am not sure what issue you have with this behavior.  I don't believe that the image portion in the Zoom Box is used for anything except to display the area that is used to calculate the star size, but the star size would not be based on the zoomed image size.

  9. One big exception to your statement are the .NET app.config and user.config files which must be in the same directory as the executable.  I believe that these files are what sometimes cause problems like the one in this thread.  If Guylain were to change where these files are located, I would expect that it would probably in the User\AppData tree. I would not recommend using Isolated Storage because it is a pain for developers since Debug and Release builds are stored in different folders due to the different signature of the exe file.

  10. Question 1) If what you say is so, then stars in the guide camera FOV must be coming from the opposite side of the secondary mirror. The fact that when you move up in the main FOV and it comes in at the bottom of the guide camera FOV is because the pickoff prism reversed up and down.

     

    Question 2) the vignetting that you are seeing could be due to aberrant reflection/refraction off the exteme lower part of the pickoff prism onto the imaging sensor, even before the pickoff prism is physically intruding into the imaging light path.

     

    I would adjust the pickoff prism so you do not see any hint of it in your images and go from there.  The reversals are irrelevant because they will be taken into account during autoguiding calibration. The only time that you will have an issue is if there are no stars in the guide camera FOV.  The typical solution in that case is to rotate the main camera and OAG until you can see a guide star.

  11. In your original note you said that the guide camera was pointing down relative to the DSLR, you did not say that the bottom of the DSLR was facing the ground. Hence my comment about the auto rotate functionality.  People have been burned by auto-rotate in the past.

     

    One thing that is confusing you is that all light does not come to focus at the the same place on the focal plane when in focus.  All light from a point source is displayed at the same place when in focus. Since you are getting light from many sources, you see light across the entire field.

     

    The quote from your previous email is correct.  If you put an eyepiece directly into your RC, the image through the eyepiece will be reversed both left to right and up to down. However, if you remove the eyepiece and put a camera directly into the RC, the image should be correct, both left to right and up to down. This is because the eyepiece reverses the view in both directions.

     

    Light reflecting off of your RC's primary mirror is reversed in both directions.  When the light reflects off of the secondary mirror it is reversed, yet again.  This gives you a normal, unreversed image in both direction when seen through your DLSR's viewfinder which is mounted at prime focus..

     

    However, since the light in the guide camera is reflected off of the pickoff prism, that image will be reversed top-to-bottom but not left-to-right.

     

    Also, it is normal for an OAG that the stars in the guide camera FOV are not seen in imaging camera FOV.

     

    So, digest that and post any remaining questions.

  12. It does look like you are plugged into the correct jack on the camera. 

     

    The 70D has Wi-Fi support which you must disable, via the third "wrench" menu , to use the camera with BYE.

     

    When you connect the camera to the PC and turn it on, do you get any indication (sound) from Windows that the camera was recognized? Does the camera show up in the Windows Device Manager? 

     

    You said that you downloaded the latest Canon driver, but the only driver that you should need is built into Windows, So, there is no driver available for download.  I am not sure what you downloaded.

     

    You said that you tried all 4 of my original suggestions, but did not provide info about the results. Such as what other camera did you use?  Was it also not recognized by Windows?

     

    Since all your attempts are with the same cable, the cable could be bad.

    Also, the USB port on the laptop could be bad.

     

    The first things that I would try are 1) disable the 70D's WiFi, and 2) use the original USB cable.

  13. These are the instructions from page 152 of the manual:

     

    * Use the interface cable provided with the camera

    * Connect the cable to the camera's <DIGITAL> terminal. (It should be on the left side, next to the hinge for the LCD display.)

    * Connect the cord's plug to the computer's USB terminal

  14. Where to start???

     

    Canon had a 70D...Nikon has a D70.  Backyard Nikon does not work with the D70 because Nikon has not provided  a Software Development Kit (SDK) for that model.  The following assumes that you have a Canon 70D...

     

    Did you connect the Canon 70D camera to the PC via the supplied USB cable?

    Is the camera turned on?

    Does Windows recognize that the camera is connected?

    What version of Windows? 32-bit or 64-bit?

     

    What have you already tried?

     

    If Windows does not recognize the camera when you connect it and turn it on then your problem is not BYE.

     

    Possible causes are:

     

    1) camera is broken or USB protocol is disabled

    2) the USB cable is bad

    3) the USB port on the computer is broken

    4) Windows needs a driver for the camera

     

    Troubleshooting suggestions:

     

    1) try a different camera or try the 70D on a different computer

    2) try a different USB cable that you know is working

    3) try a different USB port

    4) if you have a new camera, but are trying to connect to a laptop running an old version of Windows, like XP, you may need to find a driver to load into Windows.

     

    We are not looking over your shoulder, so the more information that you can provide, the better the help that the group can provide.

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