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astroman133

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Everything posted by astroman133

  1. astroman133

    esata

    I guess that I am fortunate in that I don't have equipment connection/communication issues, even though I have all my gear connected via a single USB-Cat 5 extender to a single USB port. Have you tried connecting your camera directly to one port with the rest of your equipment connected to the other port via your hub? If that alleviates your problem then you could get a second port/extender just for the camera. That may have no effect if both USB connections use the same internal USB hub and that is your bottleneck.
  2. astroman133

    esata

    For me downloading only takes a second or two, so there is not much benefit to purchasing extra hardware to speed it up.
  3. A couple of weeks ago a person complained about slow downloads from the camera into BYE. The problem was traced to the use of AVG anti-virus software. If your problem is re-creatable, I would suggest temporarily disabling your anti-virus software to see if the symptoms change.
  4. IMO, it seems that what you want is easily accomplished during processing and it is not a good fit for the capture application.
  5. I have read the recommendation that you should have index files that cover a range of 0.1 - 2.0 times your FOV. The installer for AT has been improved, since I first set it up so that it only installs those portions of cygwin that are needed by astrometry.net. Because I initially did not know which index files I would need, I downloaded all of them. Then I move the files that I don't need for my current setup into a separate directory so AT won't try to solve using them.
  6. Jeff, BYE does not plate solve. Astro Tortilla manages the plate solving. When BYE is chosen as AT's camera application, it will ask for an image when appropriate. AT is made up of 4 basic parts: the AT application, astrometry.net (the plate solving engine), the astrometry.net data files, and cygwin (a Unix environment for Windows). the AT installer installs everything you need, except for the data files. As you might expect the data files are large (> 20GB), so it does take a while to get it all set up. Finally, it is totally local to your laptop and is very happy to work when you don't have an internet connection.
  7. Perhaps a remnant of the EOS Utility is still in memory. I suggest logging off and back. This should force the remnant to exit.
  8. I'll let Guylain answer definitively, but there are several DIGIC II cameras that are supported, with a couple of gotchas. They are supported only on 32-bit operating systems and they need a second cable (a serial cable) to do Bulb exposures.
  9. While I don't disagree that hubs can become overloaded, my experience is different. I run mount, focuser, guide camera, and imaging camera over a single hub, without any issues. In my case, my hub is a USB-Cat5 extender. My mount is set up in my back yard, and I run a single Cat5 cable to my laptop that I run from my kitchen table. Another possible issue with trying to become dependent on WiFi for communications...If you go to popular star parties, be aware that they prohibit use of WiFi for operating your equipment because their network will not tolerate the extra bandwidth.
  10. Plus, it is fixed at F2.2 You can purchase any of the Edge HD optical tubes and separate HyperStar. That way you can use it at F/10 or F/2. That way you don't give up the flexibility that is inherent in the SCT. I predict that this offering will not be spectacularly popular.
  11. I just realized that I did not explicitly say that I am always able to see the bright stars selected by the Precise GoTo function for Frame & Focus in BYE.
  12. Jerry, I do not believe that someone can state an absolute magnitude limit. It depends on the aperture of the telescope and the sensitivity of the camera sensor, so it will vary with each setup.
  13. If your camera still works correctly when untethered, my guess would be a problem with the cable or cables that you are using to connect the camera to the PC.
  14. Jerry, Your scope may be different from mine, but when I use my DSLR, any "bright" star will work. In this case I mean bright in the sense that the Celestron NexStar hand controller selects it as a calibration or alignment star or for the "Precise Goto" function. If you are not familiar with the "Precise Goto" function, you should read about it in the Celestron manual. Basically, the hand controller automatically selects a bright star, usually within a few degrees of the target, and slews to it. You can then adjust the mount to center the star (and, at the same time adjust the focus of your telescope) and then complete the slew to your target. Occasionally, when your target is close to the meridian, it will choose a bright star on the opposite side and using Precise Goto can cause a couple of meridian flips. This can be a bit of a pain and you just need to be careful when using Precise Goto on a star that has just crossed the meridian. I hope this helps.
  15. RegiStar does all the heavy lifting, and it does a good job!
  16. Focus is critical. Use BYE Frame and Focus to focus on a bright star near your target. Then slew to your planet. BYE's Planetary mode uses captured LiveView frames to assemble a video (.avi) file. LiveView downloads frames at around 15 per second so the exposure is fixed to be something less than that and is not user-controlled. Canon allows you to use both the ISO and exposure duration settings to control the brightness of the LiveView image. So, set your ISO to 400 or 800 and then shorten the exposure value to darken the display until you can see Jupiter's equatorial bands. I cannot suggest values because your setup will require different values from mine. Until you gain experience with the technique, I would suggest that after you have captured your first video, that you capture 2 more using a shorter and a longer exposure so you can decide what looks best. I would also say that, within reason, being under exposed is better than being overexposed. Another point is that for some cameras you may have to change a setting in the camera's menus to allow "Live View Exposure Simulation". So if you are not able to darken the LiveView image by adjusting the exposure, go look for that setting in the camera and enable it. Good Luck,
  17. Another option would be to have a "Clear Cache" button on the Advanced Settings page.
  18. Jerry, I'm glad you finally got a chance to exercise your new mount, but sorry for you pain! I know that Polaris is higher for you than it is in the US, but if you get your mount set up so the polar axis is close to Polaris, you should be within a degree or two of having a good alignment. I ignore the altitude scale on the side of my mount and instead I use a digital level on my saddle to set the altitude. That allows me to adjust only the azimuth to bring Polaris to its correct position. For azimuth adjustment I have a polar alignment finderscope in my mount to assist with a rough polar alignment. Use of the PA finder requires me to get down on one knee to look into it. This will be tougher for you at a higher latitude. Then I use a low power eyepiece with an illuminated reticle to do a 2+4 star alignment. This is good enough to hit targets all night long. However, if I will be doing photography I then do an All Star Polar Alignment and then redo the 2+4 alignment. Also, I use a Rigel Quick Finder as a naked eye finder. It attaches to a small base that is stuck to my OTA with double-sided tape. The finder body unsnaps from the base for easy storage of both the OTA and the finder. The finder does not need to be re-adjusted for subsequent sessions as long as it was not used on another scope. It is easily aligned to the OTA with 3 adjustment knobs and when I center a bright star in the Quick Finder it is always visible in images (both DSLR and CCD). Oh, and the Quick Finder comes with 2 bases so I can move it between scopes. I hope this helps.
  19. astroman133

    doubler

    Jim, I am not saying that you will need an extension piece when using a barlow. However, with my 5" refractor and 2X or 4X Powermate I do need an extension. The easiest way to test is to aim at the moon and look through the viewfinder while manually racking the focuser. You will be able to tell pretty quickly whether you can focus or if you need an extension. Good Luck,
  20. astroman133

    doubler

    The 2X and 4X are about the same. They both require the 3" extension.
  21. astroman133

    doubler

    Whatever Barlow you use, it should be 2" diameter. When I use either of my 2X or 4X Powermates, I need to insert a 3" extension between the focuser and the Powermate to achieve focus. Your setup may be different.
  22. A manual for an older version of BYE is part of the current download package. You can access it from the Windows Start Menu. With all the emphasis on releasing new, long-awaited versions of BYE and BYN, the manual update has been put on a back burner. This is solely my comment as a user. If you have questions about how use application features, you can ask questions in this forum. Lots of long-time users post and reply here.
  23. You can change the file name template on the Settings screen to mimic the in-camera file naming. This has always been so with BYE. I cannot say for Nikon, because I don't know the builtin naming convention, but you should be able to come close.
  24. Do you have a memory card with lots of images in your camera when you connect? From what others have said, the Nikon API assumes that you want to access those image and so takes quite a bit of time just after connection to catalog the images on the card. If this is the issue, you can improve this by replacing the memory card with one that is empty.
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