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astroman133

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Everything posted by astroman133

  1. If your camera still works correctly when untethered, my guess would be a problem with the cable or cables that you are using to connect the camera to the PC.
  2. Jerry, Your scope may be different from mine, but when I use my DSLR, any "bright" star will work. In this case I mean bright in the sense that the Celestron NexStar hand controller selects it as a calibration or alignment star or for the "Precise Goto" function. If you are not familiar with the "Precise Goto" function, you should read about it in the Celestron manual. Basically, the hand controller automatically selects a bright star, usually within a few degrees of the target, and slews to it. You can then adjust the mount to center the star (and, at the same time adjust the focus of your telescope) and then complete the slew to your target. Occasionally, when your target is close to the meridian, it will choose a bright star on the opposite side and using Precise Goto can cause a couple of meridian flips. This can be a bit of a pain and you just need to be careful when using Precise Goto on a star that has just crossed the meridian. I hope this helps.
  3. RegiStar does all the heavy lifting, and it does a good job!
  4. Focus is critical. Use BYE Frame and Focus to focus on a bright star near your target. Then slew to your planet. BYE's Planetary mode uses captured LiveView frames to assemble a video (.avi) file. LiveView downloads frames at around 15 per second so the exposure is fixed to be something less than that and is not user-controlled. Canon allows you to use both the ISO and exposure duration settings to control the brightness of the LiveView image. So, set your ISO to 400 or 800 and then shorten the exposure value to darken the display until you can see Jupiter's equatorial bands. I cannot suggest values because your setup will require different values from mine. Until you gain experience with the technique, I would suggest that after you have captured your first video, that you capture 2 more using a shorter and a longer exposure so you can decide what looks best. I would also say that, within reason, being under exposed is better than being overexposed. Another point is that for some cameras you may have to change a setting in the camera's menus to allow "Live View Exposure Simulation". So if you are not able to darken the LiveView image by adjusting the exposure, go look for that setting in the camera and enable it. Good Luck,
  5. Another option would be to have a "Clear Cache" button on the Advanced Settings page.
  6. Jerry, I'm glad you finally got a chance to exercise your new mount, but sorry for you pain! I know that Polaris is higher for you than it is in the US, but if you get your mount set up so the polar axis is close to Polaris, you should be within a degree or two of having a good alignment. I ignore the altitude scale on the side of my mount and instead I use a digital level on my saddle to set the altitude. That allows me to adjust only the azimuth to bring Polaris to its correct position. For azimuth adjustment I have a polar alignment finderscope in my mount to assist with a rough polar alignment. Use of the PA finder requires me to get down on one knee to look into it. This will be tougher for you at a higher latitude. Then I use a low power eyepiece with an illuminated reticle to do a 2+4 star alignment. This is good enough to hit targets all night long. However, if I will be doing photography I then do an All Star Polar Alignment and then redo the 2+4 alignment. Also, I use a Rigel Quick Finder as a naked eye finder. It attaches to a small base that is stuck to my OTA with double-sided tape. The finder body unsnaps from the base for easy storage of both the OTA and the finder. The finder does not need to be re-adjusted for subsequent sessions as long as it was not used on another scope. It is easily aligned to the OTA with 3 adjustment knobs and when I center a bright star in the Quick Finder it is always visible in images (both DSLR and CCD). Oh, and the Quick Finder comes with 2 bases so I can move it between scopes. I hope this helps.
  7. astroman133

    doubler

    Jim, I am not saying that you will need an extension piece when using a barlow. However, with my 5" refractor and 2X or 4X Powermate I do need an extension. The easiest way to test is to aim at the moon and look through the viewfinder while manually racking the focuser. You will be able to tell pretty quickly whether you can focus or if you need an extension. Good Luck,
  8. astroman133

    doubler

    The 2X and 4X are about the same. They both require the 3" extension.
  9. astroman133

    doubler

    Whatever Barlow you use, it should be 2" diameter. When I use either of my 2X or 4X Powermates, I need to insert a 3" extension between the focuser and the Powermate to achieve focus. Your setup may be different.
  10. A manual for an older version of BYE is part of the current download package. You can access it from the Windows Start Menu. With all the emphasis on releasing new, long-awaited versions of BYE and BYN, the manual update has been put on a back burner. This is solely my comment as a user. If you have questions about how use application features, you can ask questions in this forum. Lots of long-time users post and reply here.
  11. You can change the file name template on the Settings screen to mimic the in-camera file naming. This has always been so with BYE. I cannot say for Nikon, because I don't know the builtin naming convention, but you should be able to come close.
  12. Do you have a memory card with lots of images in your camera when you connect? From what others have said, the Nikon API assumes that you want to access those image and so takes quite a bit of time just after connection to catalog the images on the card. If this is the issue, you can improve this by replacing the memory card with one that is empty.
  13. Dave, How do you have the camera connected to the PC?
  14. It is possible that one of those directories contained a corrupted configuration file that was causing the issue. The next time you ran BYN it recreated a good version of that file. Just a thought.
  15. Here is one of my images from this week's lunar eclipse. It is a stack of 20 images at 0.4 seconds and 10 images at 8 seconds captured with my Canon 1000D using Backyard EOS. Processing with ImagesPlus and Photoshop CS6.
  16. I am going to use Planetary mode with 5X zoom to capture the moon. I can capture 800 frames in about a minute. With 5X zoom, it will take 4 movies to get the complete disk. Then I will use RegiStax to stack each of the movies and sharpen each of the resulting images. Then I will use RegiStar to combine the resulting frames into an image of the complete disk. This is the process that I used when I captured a previously posted image. I plan to repeat this process every 25-30 minutes throughout the eclipse See this thread --> http://forum.otelescope.com/post/lunar-mosaic-with-bye-planetary-mode-6845104?pid=1282349581
  17. To me it seems defective to be that inaccurate, but the BYE settings page allows you to enter correction factors to adjust both the temperature and humidity, so with the large correction you may be OK.
  18. I don't use in-camera dark subtraction or mirror lockup, but I am actually not too surprised that if the mirror is locked up that in-camera dark subtraction are disabled. My reasoning is that having the mirror down helps keep light from getting to the sensor when the dark is being taken, especially in a light-filled situation. I strongly recommend disabling long exposure noise reduction (what I have called in-camera dark subtraction). Shoot RAW images and do your own dark subtraction. You will get a better result be able to image more targets when the stars are out.
  19. In preparation for next week's lunar eclipse, I turned my 5" refractor on the moon. This image is a mosaic of 4. Each image in the mosaic was created from a video of 800 frames using BackyardEOS and my Canon 1000D in Planetary Capture mode with 5X zoom. I adjusted the FOV for each video by moving the Zoom Box. Stacking and sharpening were accomplished with RegiStax 6, The mosaic was created with RegiStar 1.0.7. The remaining processing was accomplished with Photoshop CS6. Now all I need is good weather for the eclipse! Thanks!
  20. Once you select the newer camera family, on the right, you should get to BYE's main screen. While most of the controls are disabled until you connect, the Connect button and the Settings button should be enabled.
  21. Guylain and Chris, Congratulations on this milestone! Your dedication and commitment to our hobby are inspiring!
  22. astroman133

    Hello

    Yes, I am expecting warmer temps, but the average summertime, daytime highs are only in the low 90's in my part of Arizona...way cooler than the Phoenix area. I will catch up on sleep during the monsoon season!
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