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Everything posted by astroman133

  1. Rick, According to the BYE web site's Camera Support Grid, the 20Da is a DIGIC II camera that requires a serial cable, in addition to the USB cable, to do bulb exposures. Also, Canon does not support tethering that camera to a PC running a 64-bit operating system.
  2. Make sure that the Cable Support option in the Capture Plan Center is set to Camera USB.
  3. Did you have the rotary, "shooting mode", knob on the camera set to M (Manual)?
  4. It is possible that the issue us caused by a flaky USB cable. If it persists, you could troubleshoot with a different, shorter cable.
  5. Craig, Did you try an empty memory card, instead of no card?
  6. Francis, I do not have a modified camera...Yet...and I don't know if custom white balance is applied to LiveView frames or not. In order to apply a custom white balance you first need to take an image of something that is pure white and fills the frame entirely. That image needs to be in the camera and you need to specify it as the Custom White Balance image in the camera's menus (for my T5i the menu option is called "Custom White Balance" and it is on the 2nd [two dot] configuration menu). Then you need to select Custom from the White Balance (press the WB button) menu list. If this doesn't make sense, I am sure that the steps are in the camera's user manual. If that does not apply the custom correction to the your planetary image, then you will have to correct the color balance manually in post processing. The brute force way is to align the black points of the three colors by looking at the histograms for R, G, & B. Some programs may have color balance options that do the same thing.
  7. What is your PC configuration? It is not normal to run out of memory if you have a reasonably-sized computer. How much memory? What processor? What version of Windows? Nobody else has reported that error to this forum, so it seems like it is specific to your setup.
  8. Jerry, If your camera does not have the Exposure Simulation setting, then all you have to do to activate it is to set the exposure to some value less than 2 seconds. How much less less will depend on how bright the ambient light is. Try the steps that I suggested in the previous email. You don't even have to connect the camera to a computer. Just activate LiveView, and adjust the exposure using the wheel on the camera. Once you have shortened the exposure so that the image in the LCD screen is starting to darken, then you should be able to darken it further by lowering the ISO.
  9. I agree with s3igell. JMI has different types of automated focusers and I did not know which one you have. If you are going to get a Powermate, I would suggest getting the T-thread adaptor for it since it will shorten your optical train.
  10. Jerry, I may have to wait to see a picture, but if your motofocus installs in place of your built-in focus knob then putting the suggested setup (2" visual back adapter with Powermate and camera) should work just fine. If you have an external focuser that is controlled by the motofocus, then hopefully it is 2" and the Powermate and camera will just connect to it. A picture will definitely help.
  11. Jerry, BYE captures individual live view frames, downloaded to the PC as quickly as the hardware supports. That is about 15 frames per second with average hardware. This means that setting a shutter speed is meaningless for controlling the length of each frame's exposure. So Canon uses the exposure, and ISO, to control the brightness of the frames. Try this in a semi-dark room with a lens on the camera. Connect BYE to your camera and go to Frame and Focus. With LiveView active, set the ISO to 800, and the exposure to 2". Now start shortening the exposure. As you shorten the exposure time, eventually you should see the image start to darken. Depending on how dark the room is you may have to shorten it quite a bit before you start to see a change. Then if you vary the ISO you should also see the brightness change. I typically leave the ISO at a fixed value and just control the brightness by changing the exposure. In your test, did you use a Barlow? If not, depending on your scope's focal length, the target will be very small, even with 5X zoom. The 5X zoom is a crop of the area (about 20%) inside the zoom box, displayed at the same image size as a regular, unzoomed image. The focal length of my refractor is 660mm. So with a 4x Powermate it is about equivalent to an 11" SCT at f/10. That is a normally a pretty short focal length with planetary work. Jupiter and Saturn are pretty small even when using 5X zoom. I don't have an answer for your question about the sunspots being stationary when using your camera. You should see them moving around, due to atmospheric turbulence, in LiveView just like in the webcam. I hope this helps.
  12. astroman133

    PHD 2.2.2a

    I had stiction issues with my CGEM when I first bought it, but after hypertuning it the mount moved much more freely and I was able to get good images as long as 15 minutes with PHD doing the guiding. I have since moved on to a different mount for imaging but I still use the CGEM for visual observing and outreach.
  13. Jerry, If I remember correctly, you have a Celestron setup. If so, then you need an adapter that screws onto the back of the OTA that will accept your Barlow. The 8" Edge HD OTA has 2" diameter male SCT threads and the larger models have 3.25" diameter SCT threads. Something like one of these adapters will work: for 8" Edge HD for 9.25", 11" or 14" These links are to the online store at OPT. I am sure that they are available from other vendors. In addition, I am sure that other manufacturers make similar adapters. I have both 2X and 4X Tele Vue Powermates. I purchases, separately, T-ring adapters for both of them. I don't know if other Barlows are available with a T-ring adapter or not. I have not used my EdgeHD for imaging since I bought the Powermates so I do not know whether I would need a barrel extension to reach focus or whether the SCT has enough backfocus to accommodate the Powermate. However, I would put that visual back adapter onto the back of the Edge and put the Powermate with its T-ring adapter, Canon T adapter, and camera into it and try to achieve focus. I hope this helps.
  14. Jerry, What is your OTA?
  15. Jim, Just to be clear, you have the eyepiece on the back of the telescope like for visual observing and you are shooting at the eyepiece with a camera and its lens. I think that the enlargement would increase by a factor of 3 (36 / 12).
  16. Jerry, I have never done any eyepiece projection calculations, but according to a book that I have. In order for Jupiter to take up half the frame you need a field of view about 80 arcseconds (the angular diameter of Jupiter is ~40 arcseconds). In order to achieve this with a 10" f/10 SCT, using eyepiece projection, you need to achieve a focal ratio of around f/66. Lets round this to about a 7x increase in focal ratio. This does not address how much detail you will see, just how to get the FOV. How much magnification you will get with eyepiece projection depends on the distance between the camera and the eyepiece. The formula is P = (E + 1) * FE, where P is the projection distance, E is the desired enlargement, and FE is the focal length of the eyepiece. So in order to get a 7X enlargement using a 12 mm eyepiece, you would need to set the distance to about (7 + 1) * 12 = 96 mm, or around 3.75 inches. My reference for these calculations is "The Handbook of Astronomical Image Processing", 2nd edition, by Richard Berry & James Burnell, pages 79-82 and 146-147. That said, I would try your 500D at prime focus with a 2" 2X barlow and use 5X zoom in BYE's Planetary Capture mode. It is a simpler setup, with less glass, and it has given me satisfying results on nights of good seeing. All you need is the 2" barlow.
  17. Jerry, There are 3 pages in the manual that describe what the various controls do for Planetary mode. Depending on what your scope is, you will probably want to use at least a 2x barlow or Powermate. And you will want to use the 5X Zoom mode in BYE. Adjust the ISO and shutter speed to set the LiveView brightness. Then take about 60-70 seconds worth of frames. If you are unsure about the exposure (it should be somewhat dark) vary the exposure and shoot more frames. Then use RegiStax or AutoStakkert to pick the best frames from the video and stack them.
  18. Bob, I am not a Nikon owner, but with the Canon cameras you can adjust focus from BYE when you have a lens attached. However, with the camera attached to a telescope, at prime focus, you must use the telescope's focuser to make that adjustment. If the focuser allows computer control and there is an ASCOM driver for it, then you can use BYE or BYN's ASCOM Focuser tool to adjust the focuser.
  19. I have no problem with Registax or AutoStakkert opening JPG files from BYE. In fact, I have had intermittent issues with Registax opening the AVI files, so I always feed Registax the JPGs. For AutoStakkert, I believe that you need to load the JPG files via Windows Drag and Drop. That is, open AutoStakkert and with Windows Explorer browse to the folder with the JPG files, select them and drag them with the mouse into AutoStakkert.
  20. I would also recommend that, if necessary, you install the ASCOM Platform from the ASCOM-Standards web site (http://www.ascom-standards.org), not from the Orion web site. That way the ASCOM Platform development team will be better able to assist you and you are always sure to get the latest release of the Platform.
  21. Thanks for all who have looked at, and commented on, my latest images. In preparation for Flickr no longer allowing me to log on with my Google+ logon, I have migrated all my publicly posted images to Astrobin. Here are the new links to the wide-field images of the Milky Way in Sagittarius and Scorpius: Milky Way without annotations Milky Way with annotations
  22. A while ago I pasted some text into a post. In the pasted text was some that was formatted to display in a different color. I tried to remove that formatting so that the text would display in the default color, but the only way I could see to do that was to make the text Black. That worked well while I was composing the post because the message entry control has a white background, but when the post was finished it was displayed with a dark gray background. The problem is that the text was still black while text with the default formatting was transformed to white. Is there a way to remove the formatting from text?
  23. First 2 assumptions: 1) You must be using the Imaging screen to run a capture plan (not Frame & Focus) 2) You have set the Save To location (in the Capture Plan Center) to PC or PC+Camera. If the above options have been set then your images will be somewhere in the Download folder tree which is specified on the Settings screen. Either right in that folder or in a subfolder, depending on which "Sub-folders" option you have selected. I like the "DATE Style" option for sub-folders. Then, as an example, if my Download folder is set to D:\My Pictures\BackyardEOS and Sub-folders is set to "DATE Style", then images shot tonight (6/7/2014) of the target M51 will be in D:\My Pictures\BackyardEOS\2014-06-07\M51. When your capture plan was running, did you see each image displayed as it was downloaded? You should also see a strip of the thumbnails across the bottom of the BYE window. If so, then your image is on your PC in the designated location. When you change targets, you don't have to open or close anything, just modify the capture plan, as necessary, and change the target name before starting the plan.
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