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astroman133

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Everything posted by astroman133

  1. I believe that the <ambient> keyword in the filename template will put the TemPerHum temperature in the file name. The <temperature> keyword is the internal "sensor" temperature.
  2. Guylain, Would looking at his log files help?
  3. John, Bulb exposures are triggered and timed by BYN/BYE instead of being timed by the camera. In the Capture Plan Center in BYN set the Shutter to any setting other than "BULB". The exposure will then be timed by the camera. This will not use the serial cable, only the USB cable.
  4. astroman133

    Saturn Help

    i would suggest taking 60-70 seconds worth. So, at 15 frames/sec that would be around 1000 frames. Then I would use RegiStax to grade them and stack the best 10 percent.
  5. astroman133

    User Guide

    Look on the Start Menu under the Backyard EOS group, or start BYE and click on the ? button near the right-hand end of the the title bar.
  6. Actually, the camera does not "take a movie". BYE does all the heavy lifting. It activates the camera's LiveView and downloads each LiveView image (frame) to the PC. It stores each image in a separate JPG file. Then when the capture run has finished, BYE assembles the individual frames into a movie (AVI file). BYE's process is different from the process for creating a movie/video in the camera, without a PC connection. BYE does not control or support the in-camera process. As Guylain said, when doing planetary imaging with Mars, Jupiter, or Saturn as the target, you always want to use the 5X zoom mode for maximum resolution, even with a 2X or greater Barlow lens between the scope and the camera. I have also successfully used the 5X zoom mode when imaging the moon. This technique results in the capture of several videos, each with a different portion of the lunar disk. Each video is then stacked into a single image (usually using RegiStax or AutoStakkert). The stacked images are then assembled into a final image of the entire disk with RegiStar. Note: RegiStax and AutoStakkert are freeware. RegiStar is licensed (not free) software.
  7. There was someone, back in late April, who reported eliminating lockups in BYE by switching from a USB 3.0 to a USB 2.0 connection.
  8. Is it possible that Frank's issue is due to the fact that he is using USB 3.0? If I remember correctly, others had problems using USB 3.0 ports.
  9. If you set the Frame Type to Dark, in the Capture Plan Center, BYE will not attempt to dither. I verified this with V3.1 RC01. Also, if you have the Frame Type incorporated in the file name it will show DARK, instead of LIGHT, in the file name.
  10. Jim, My version behaves the same way. For astroimaging, only rarely would you want the LiveView exposure to be BULB. Setting the exposure to 2" will give a brighter LiveView display, but I would expect that whatever setting you choose in Frame & Focus would persist if you go to Imaging and then back to F&F. For a bright target, like the moon, 2" is way too bright, and it is inconvenient to have to keep selecting a shorter exposure.
  11. Don, Thanks for clarifying. Even through a telescope it is difficult to see even the brightest stars in LiveView. I would not even try to see stars in LiveView with a lens in place, unless it is a very long focal length lens (at least 500 mm). I do not understand why you say that focusing with short (20 second) exposures is not working for you. When you say "I still am not near enough to focus for effect", I am assuming that you mean that when you finally start to take long exposure images, after getting the FWHM as low as you can, that your images are still out of focus. Is that true? What FWHM values are you typically getting when you start and when you finish your focusing run? What focal length and f/stop are you shooting at? If you have a zoom lens, you could try to focus when you are zoomed all the way in and with the f/stop at its smallest possible value. This would make the stars their largest and brightest. This process should be the same whether or not you are using a light pollution filter. Perhaps it would be simpler to practice focusing via short exposures without the filter, until you get the hang of it. You could also try using the moon as your focusing target, if it is visible. It is also bright enough to be able to focus via LiveView.
  12. The issue with the SD card is not BYN, per se. It is related to the Nikon SDK performing some initialization with regard to (apparently) cataloging the images on the SD card. The more images on the SD card, the longer it takes. Your solution of installing an empty card is a good one.
  13. What error is displayed in AT? Do you get any error in BYE when it is unable to display the Snap image? Is there any chance that you are running out of space on your hard drive?
  14. astroman133

    Bhatinov feature?

    Doug, While I don't typically use a Bahtinov mask, let me try to explain how you might use it. Get close to focus with the view finder, LCD LiveView screen and/or BYE's LiveView screen. Make sure that you have a bright star in the field-of-view. Put the mask on the scope, over the objective. Activate LiveView in Frame & Focus and select Bahtinov, instead of FWHM or HFD, as the focus metric. This will cause BYE/BYN to superimpose lines over the spikes that are caused by the mask. Activate Star HD mode and select one of the Bahtinov presets, or choose your own values for the Star HD controls, to enhance the display of the star and spikes. Adjust the focuser to move the center spike on each side (and BYE's superimposed line) up or down. A green circle will be drawn around the star when the spikes are centered to within the tolerance as specified by the Bahtinov Range value on the Settings screen. As I said, I don't use a mask for focusing, so if I have given you any incorrect information I hope someone will correct me.
  15. Will, Is the .Net 3.5 Framework version active on your Win 8.1 system? I don't have Win 8, but on Win 7 it was installed, but not activated. I had to activate it from Programs and Features in the Control Panel.
  16. Can we start a different thread for histogram issues? This thread is about focusing issues.
  17. Mike, If the camera is shutting down due to overheating when in Frame and Focus or Planetary Capture modes continuously for an extended period of time, you should be able to duplicate this without wasting observing/imaging time. Just put a lens on the camera, or the body cap, and activate LiveView. The camera does not even have to be connected to a computer. See if you can duplicate the behavior. Taking 500 vs. 1000 frames of a target should not solve any problem. Even taking 1000 frames with a nominal frame rate of 15 fps would have LiveView active for only about a minute. The overheating may be coming from using LiveView nearly continuously for an extended period of time along with the combination of a warm ambient temperature and heating of the camera due to the battery discharging from use and the sensor capturing photons. I would suggest pausing LiveView, or navigating BYE to the Imaging screen (which closes the shutter and lowers the mirror), for a minute or two between captures to see if this changes your symptoms. You could also take a short Snap image from the Frame and Focus screen and look at the Camera Information Center to see what the sensor temperature is. Temps upwards of 100 degF (38 degC) would not be unusual.
  18. Stacking of LiveView frames is already a capability of BYE and BYN, via the Star HD button to the right of the LiveView image area.
  19. When you say that "I cannot see any stars with the camera viewfinder and only a couple of stars can be found with BYE." Do you mean in LiveView? That would not surprise me. Only the brightest stars are visible in LiveView, even without the filter. Still, if you can see 1 star you can measure its FWHM and focus on it. Then you say, "I have not been successful using the snap image function even though I can count many stars on the image." Again, if you have one or more stars in an image, you should be able to measure the FWHM and adjust focus. Just make sure that the camera settings (ISO and exposure) do not change while you are adjusting focus. Your comment, "From image to image the histogram of the star fluctuates more then can be accounted for by focus change alone." confuses me. When you are only interested in focusing, the histogram is not relevant. You say "These images do not stack." I would not waste time trying to stack images that you know are not correctly focused. Your statement "I can focus my camera with the filter in place when I snap extended objects." appears to contradict your statement that you have not been successful using the snap image function. What do you mean by "extended objects"? Even though your narrative is confusing, I get that you are having difficulty when focusing the lens. Here are my suggestions. To begin with, I would for focusing purposes, aim the camera at one of the brightest stars in the sky, like Arcturus or Vega. Focus needs to be very close to infinity, but many stock lenses go past the infinity position. So, I would start with the lens in that position that is beyond infinity as far as the lens will go). Take short snap exposures (in Frame & Focus) at high ISO. Lengthen the exposure until you see the bright star and keep that exposure (and ISO) for the duration of your focusing run. Position BYE's zoom box around the star and notice the FWHM value. Then start looping whereby you adjust focus, take an image, measure FWHM, compare to the previous FWHM and repeat. What you are trying to do is make small focus adjustments so as to minimize the FWHM of the selected star. If you are moving the focus ring counter clockwise and the FWHM of the star is getting smaller, then it starts to get larger, you have gone too far and you need to reverse the direction that you are turning the focus ring. It does take some practice, but it is doable.
  20. By far, the greatest single cause of problems is the cabling between the camera and the computer. So you had sessions where you had no issues, and sessions where there were problems. What was different, especially the cabling, between those two sessions? Often astro gear is portable and is taken down between sessions. The next time it is set up, the cabling may not be exactly the same. That is the same cables connected to the same ports. The fact that the O/S cannot find the camera also points to the cabling or port used. Verify that all the ports are identical, USB 2.0 ports. It would not have been abnormal to see a computer with a mix of USB 1.1 and USB 2.0 ports or a computer with USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 ports. BTW, others have reported issues when trying to connect their camera to a USB 3.0 computer port. I would try the same setup with a different, shorter cable. If that is not possible, I would get a good quality active USB extension cable. If BYE starts and (mostly) runs normally, I would not think that the operating system would be the issue. Keep us updated as to what you have tried and what you experienced.
  21. Not all Canon cameras have an Exposure Simulation setting..Neither my XS or T5i do. On both of those models, exposure simulation in LiveView is active when the exposure duration is set any Tv exposure. I do not know how Nikon cameras behave. Now to address the OP's issue. As has been said, only the brightest stars will show in the Live View display (either in BYN or on the LCD display). That is because LiveView frames are taken at several frames per second. However, that should be enough. If you are in focus on a bright star then you will be in focus for dim objects, since they are all effectively at the same infinite distance from the camera. You will need to take short "Snap" exposures and adjust the mount position and camera rotation between them to achieve your desired framing. The duration of the snaps would be determined by your equipment (telescope aperture and focal length) and your camera settings, such as ISO. I would start with 15 second exposures and increase until enough detail is visible to support adjusting the framing. You do not need to be guiding since these images are only intended to facilitate framing and will not be keepers. They only need to be bright enough to allow you to frame the target. Since I don't have a Nikon camera, I will assume that BYN has the same features as BYE. If so, you should be able to use the Star HD controls to enhance the LiveView display to make the stars more easily viewable. This will help you to "see" stars in the LiveView display, but I would turn off Star HD when focusing.
  22. Dr. Buck, I am not a Nikon owner, but I would start here --> https://support.nikonusa.com/.
  23. Rick, So, have you tried replacing the USB cable? Are you able to take and download exposures using Tv values shorter than 30 seconds? If so, and they do not have the same error, then Guylain may want to review your log file.
  24. Rick, Thanks for the picture. Now I understand that you are using the 2 required cables. What option are you choosing for Cable Support in the Capture Plan Center on the Imaging screen. The default value is "Camera USB", but you need to change that to DSUSB or one of the other values that tells BYE which serial port to use for Bulb control.
  25. Rick, When you say that you have the "serial cable to USB". I am not sure what you mean. You need 2 cables that run in parallel from your camera to the PC. One is a USB cable which plugs into the camera's USB port and the other is a special serial cable that plugs into the remote shutter port. It is that special serial cable that allows Bulb capture for the older models. See the BYE web site's Camera Support Grid page. The bottom of that page shows recommended suppliers for that serial cable.
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