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Everything posted by astroman133

  1. astroman133


    Is your camera listed in the BYN Camera Support Grid at the bottom of this page??
  2. See Guylain's previous email in this thread. You can beta test a new version that has support for the 810A, or you can wait for the new version to be released.
  3. Have you tried PHD2's drift alignment method? It seems to work well, once you get used to it.
  4. astroman133


    It is not on the list of supported cameras. It may be too new for Canon to have released a new version of the SDK that supports that model. If you have that much to spend, you may be better to purchase a cooled CCD camera AND a T5i.
  5. Look at this related post --> http://www.otelescop...o-pc/#entry6248
  6. First, you are correct about the effect that a Barlow lens has on the focal length. A 2X Barlow gives you double the focal length of the scope alone, but, of course, it also reduces the field-of-view. This is not very important doing planetary imaging, since the planets are typically a very small part of the field-of-view even at focal lengths exceeding 4000 mm like an 8" f/10 SCT with a 2X Barlow. Second, I would not use a diagonal when doing prime focus astrophotography. It is just extra glass in the light path. Third, I would put some type of extension tube between your refractor's focuser and the Barlow to replace the light length of the removed diagonal. However, if your focuser has enough backward travel to reach focus without adding the extension, then I would not use the extension. When I use a Tele Vue 2X Powermate, I typically need to put a 3" extension tube between the focuser and the Powermate to reach focus. BTW, Powermate is Tele Vue's name for their premium focal extenders (another name for a Barlow lens). They work for visual use or, with an optional T-thread adapter, for AP.
  7. You should also make sure that the 2 instances are configured with different BackyardTEMP and Download folders.
  8. Sorry, but with a given extension tube between the drawtube and the camera, you will either be able to focus, or not. If you can focus on a deep sky object sometimes with a given setup, but not others then your issue is one of technique, not hardware. Yesterday you were asking about M31; today about Saturn. Those 2 objects are way different in size. You could use a 4X Barlow with a 600mm scope on Saturn and it would still be a small object, whereas M31 is too large to fit in your field of view even without the Barlow. If you don't know where your focuser needs to be for a given setup (scope, camera, adapters, Barlow, etc.). the best way to get close is to aim at the moon, or a very bright star, get down on your knees and look through the camera's viewfinder while adjusting focuser. If you are able to get close to focus then you know that the length of any adapters between the focuser and the camera are good. If you cannot achieve focus then you should be able to see whether you have too much distance or not enough and adjust accordingly, by adding or removing adapters. For example, if you can see that focus gets better as you extend the drawtube, but you are not yet in focus when the drawtube is fully extended then you need to add an extension tube in front of the camera, rack the drawtube back in and try focusing through the viewfinder again. Once you have the correct distance between the focuser and the camera, and you have the star or moon in rough focus by looking through the viewfinder, you should be able to switch to LiveView on the camera's LCD display (using 5X and 10X zoom as you get closer) to get the focus even closer. Then you should be able to connect the camera to the computer and BYE to get final, critical focus. I hope this helps.
  9. Look in the "my client area" in the upper right of this page. It will give you the status of your license. A trial license is good for 30 days. That should be enough time to evaluate how BYE works, what it does, and that it is compatible with your camera. You can and should test BYE with a lens on your camera at home in the house, not just with the camera on a telescope.
  10. In LiveView and Planetary modes, the shutter setting is not the exposure, it is a brightness control. Both the ISO and shutter settings control the brightness of the frame while the frame rate is pretty steady at around 15 frames per second, depending on the camera and computer. My suggestion is set the ISO to 400 or 800 and use the shutter speed to control the brightness. Shorten the exposure to darken the image.
  11. I would try changing the temp and download folders to be local to your PC instead of network shares. See if that makes a difference.
  12. No, I did not use a Barlow in the calculation. The formula is: sensor width (in mm) * 3438 / telescope focal length (in mm) = field of view (in arc-minutes) So for you the calculation is 22.2 * 3438 / 600 or ~127 arc-minutes. If you add a 3X Barlow, you would triple the focal length and the FOV would drop to 42 arc-minutes. The "Night Sky Observer's Guide" lists the width of M31 as 185 arc-minutes across.
  13. Cross posting? again? No problem. Some people will try to game the system, no matter the cost. I think that you could give software away, but require the user to register it, and people would try to find a way around it. Good catch. I'm glad that you (virtually) slapped his hand in the public forum!
  14. Your field of view is just over 2 degrees wide. Andromeda should fill that field nicely. In fact, with a width of over 3 degrees, it is too large to completely fit. In your original note you said that you were having problems focusing on the galaxy. That may be your problem. All objects in the night sky are essentially at infinite distance from your camera, so for best results you should focus on a bright star that is near your target and then once you are in focus you can slew to the target. For M31 I would suggest Alpheratz as your focus star. M31 will appear small in short exposures because you are capturing only the bright core. The outer spiral arms are dim enough that they will only show up in longer exposures. In order to frame the galaxy you may need to rotate the camera so that the galaxy goes diagonally, from corner to corner. If you cannot rotate the camera without affecting focus, then you may need to re-focus on Alpheratz before returning to M31 to begin imaging. Good Luck!
  15. A telescope has a fixed focal length, so with a given camera the field of view is fixed. You have limited options... 1) use a telescope with a longer focal length 2) use a Barlow lens to multiply the focal length of your existing telescope 3) crop and expand the image in post processing
  16. I would suggest that you find another supplier. I do not believe that Mr Rosenow is making and selling cables any longer. Scroll to the bottom of this page, click on the Camera Support Grid for BYN and scroll to the very bottom of that page to find a link to the Shoestring Astronomy web site. You can purchase a compatible cable from there.
  17. I would suggest the 700D rather than the 70D. You can save some $$$. You should compare them side-by-side on the Canon web site. Most of the features that you would be giving up are not important for prime focus astrophotography.
  18. LiveView, with 5X Zoom on a bright star, like Vega, should help you with your collimation.
  19. Darren, In order to change your Windows from 64-bit to 32-bit (which you don't need to do) you would have to install the 32-bit version over the 64-bit version and the re-install all the other software. It is like wiping out your hard drive and re-installing everything. According to the Camera Support Grid, the 5D Mk III is a DIGIC V camera and so will work perfectly fine with with your 64-bit Windows 8. You can confirm this for yourself by clicking on the link at the bottom of this page. Your problem is either likely either pilot error, cabling, or camera settings. You need to make sure that the camera is cabled to the PC with a proper and functional USB cable, that no other camera control software is running (like Canon's EOS Utility), and that when you start BYE, that you choose the group of cameras on the right since your camera is a newer camera. I don't have that model of camera, but there may be some setting in the camera's menus that you need to activate/change to allow communication with the computer.
  20. Also, when describing an issue that you are having, please give the BYE/BYN version number that you are using. Behavior is often different between versions as Guylain responds to user requests.
  21. Do you have Mirror Lock enabled in the camera?
  22. Your request seems sensible to me. BTW, there are several Nikon models that do not require a serial cable for BULB exposures. Look at the Camera Support Grid (follow the link at the bottom of this page). I typically shoot dark frames at a different time from when I shoot my lights. This maximizes my productivity during clear, moon-free nights. I use a light panel for flats which I do shoot right after shooting lights, but flat capture is always the same capture plan, so having to load a separate plan is not a problem, That said, not everyone has the same workflow, so allowing the flexibility that you suggest to the capture plan seems to make sense; at least from my perspective as another user.
  23. The BYN Camera Support Grid confirms that the D600 has been tested and can do BULB exposures with only the USB cable, but with a footnote that BULB exposures with a lens attached may not work in all cases. Perhaps the footnote needs to be expanded.
  24. astroman133


    Providing pre-defined settings is not really possible. It is dependent on many factors and it is unlikely that my settings would work for you. The capture plan values (ISO and exposure) depend on all of the following 1) your telescope 2) your camera 3) sky brightness due to moon or light pollution 4) ambient temperature 5) whatever filter is being used 6) has the camera been modified 7) to some extent the brightness of the target I am probably leaving some items off, but you get the idea. Given all the combinations, sharing settings is just not workable. For deep sky astrophotography, as opposed to planetary AP, I would suggest setting the ISO to 800 and then take test shots of different exposures in the 3-10 minute range to see what the histogram looks like. You want the bump of the histogram to be between 40-60% of the way from the left hand side. This should put the left shoulder of the histogram well away from the left side and the right shoulder away from the right side.
  25. astroman133


    Paul, Of course aperture is meaningless unless you have a lens attached. I am a Canon user and in BYE the Aperture column disappears from the Capture Plan when no lens is connected. The ASCOM telescope functionality is not generally used for slewing since you cannot enter a destination. The scope only moves as long as you press (with your mouse) one of the 4 arrow buttons. This is a nudge operation, rather than a slew. It is intended to help you frame an imaging target and is usually used only for small, short duration moves.
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