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  4. Hi there, thanks for your comment. It's no real secret how to turn these sub-frame images into the photos you see on the web. After waiting for a cloudless night, I set up my Celestron 6" SCT to track Saturn. I used BYEOS to take 2000 jpg images (sub-frames) of the planet in planetary mode with my Canon 700D, using a 2x Barlow lens and 5X Liveview zoom. I then stacked the best frames (I found 50% worked best for these subs) in AutoStakkert, and then used Registax to sharpen and de-noise the image. A little brightening, de-noising and colour saturation in Photoshop Elements (but not too much 😃) got me the final result. I must admit that I was absolutely amazed with the final image, especially considering what the original images looked like. More of my images are on my Cloudy Nights page https://www.cloudynights.com/gallery/member/306923-tulloch/ There is a great workflow on the web here, note that he uses a mono camera and multiple filters, I find a DSLR camera works just fine. I also don't use WinJupos, AutoStakkert has a derotation mode that seems to work OK. http://www.thelondonastronomer.com/it-is-rocket-science/2018/6/7/a-quick-guide-to-planetary-imaging Andrew
  5. Great image from the blurry one on the left. Are you willing to give some details on how this was accomplished?
  6. Please see the STICKY Post labeled "BackyardEOS camera support grid, is my camera supported?" at the head of this Forum.
  7. Does Backyard EOS support the new Canon Rebel SL3 / 250D?
  8. That is a very good Saturn image, probably about the best you can expect from a 6" SCT. You can clearly see the Cloud-top Banding, and the Rings show Details including the A & B Rings and the Cassini Division!! Given the limited Aperture and the Central Obstruction, that's Very Good!!
  9. I think that you are on the right track...Nice Job!
  10. Thanks for you responses, I'm aware that there are no "best" settings, it will depend on the target, atmosphere, camera etc etc. I guess I was more interested if anyone knew how LiveView works exactly so I can optimise one setting (ISO vs shutter speed) over another for best results. I was able to turn 2000 underexposed, blurry, grainy sub-frames of Saturn into a pretty good result from my 6" SCT (see images attached), just wondering if I can do better. was turned into this ---> Thanks, Andrew
  11. Your "best settings" and my "best settings" will likely not be the same. In LiveView both the shutter and ISO control the brightness. I would suggest setting the ISO at 400 and vary the shutter speed to control the brightness. It will take some trial and error to get the a well exposed planetary image and it may vary from night to night, but the viewed LiveView image should appear somewhat underexposed. You can brighten it to your taste by stretching it during processing.
  12. Running in admin mode causes a cascade of other issues. The best solution is to NOT run in admin mode. We need to help you solve your original issue about saving BYE's settings. I suggest 1) upgrade to BYE 3.1.17 and 2) re-install BYE to a different folder. Installing to a different folder has helped others with the same issue.
  13. Sorry to revive this old thread, but when running in admin mode to have the settings “stick” I’m having issues with dithering via ASCOM. EQMod is already running but when I connect the scope for dithering, BYE triggers another instance of EQMod, instead of using the instance that’s already running and can’t get “a port” and thus no dithering. When *not* running in admin, it uses the instance that’s already there. Any advice?
  14. It's a trial and error for ISO versus shutter speed. However, for planetary make sure you use 5x zoom. This gives you in most cases a 1:1 pixel resolution, meaning 1 pixel on the sensor = 1 pixel on your image. It is the best resolution you can get in planetary mode. Your camera is a USB2 camera, so a USB3 cable won't do anything to increase throughput. Regards,
  15. Hi there, I've been using BYE Classic v3.1.17 for a while and am quite happy with how its all going. My interest lies in getting the "best" settings when taking image bursts of the planets while in Planetary mode. Live view works fine and I am able to adjust the ISO and shutter speed to give me an image that looks OK, but I'd be interested in knowing exactly how live view works to give me the best images. Questions such as: - How bright should my sub-frames be? Since there's no histogram display it's hard to tell if I'm over or underexposing. - If my subs are too dark, should I increase ISO or decrease shutter speed? Does it matter which one I choose? Will increasing the ISO increase noise, will decreasing shutter speed increase motion blur, or are these parameters merely virtual (ie live view is updated at a constant 30fps by the camera, ISO is just a gain value) and they both have the same effect to increase the signal (and noise) equally? - Has anyone experimented with different USB2 (or USB3) cables to improve fps throughput to the computer? It is possible to buy "high quality" USB2 cables with extra shielding, gold plated connectors, thicker wires etc, has anyone tried these and has it made any difference? Thanks, Andrew
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  17. If you provided more information about how you intend to use this capability, the authors would have a better idea about what exactly to implement. For example, you talk about taking readings every minute. What value would you expect to be incorporated into the file name? The value at the beginning of the exposure, the value at the end of the exposure, a mean value representative of the entire exposure? Would having a value or values embedded in the image metadata also be useful? Thanks!
  18. Is that what you are using to get your reading? http://knightware.biz/sqm/readerpro.htm
  19. How about incorporating SQM readings into BEOS, adding the SQM value into the filename? Andrew Cool www.skippysky.com.au
  20. I do a lot of measuring of dark sites with SQMs, and take matching allsky photos to prove the sky was clear. Phyllis Knight's very nice SQM Preader Pro will optionally take readings exactly on the Minute, e.g. at 0101, 0102, 0103, rather than at some semi-random number of seconds into the minute. Suggestion 1 It would be very nice to have BEOS do the same, so that I can be guaranteed of synching SQM readings with a particular image. Of course I'd need to have slightly shorter images than the SQM reading interval in order to allow time for the images to be written to the card. Andrew Cool www.skippysky.com.au
  21. David, As I said in your original post. The ASCOM Focuser interface does not allow an ASCOM client application like BYE or BYN to control the focuser's motor speed. It can only specify the target position (for an absolute focuser) or the move amount (for a relative focuser). I have a Moonlite focuser (actually I have 3 Moonlite focusers) and it appears to operate at a constant motor speed regardless of the move distance. I have no problems moving either a long distance or a very short distance with accuracy. I would contact Celestron with your concerns.
  22. Hi David, While many of us have Motorized Focusers in use with BYE/BYN, we need to remember: The BYE Focuser Control is only intended to be a direct and simple interface to the ASCOM Focuser Object. This means that the Control is truly dependent upon what the ASCOM Driver AND your Equipment Driver provide Drivers are allowed to implement their own interpretations of all the related ASCOM Interfaces - or to not even do so (ie: support Multiple Speeds or Absolute Position) The Developer - Guylain (who will surely provide more of his own input shortly) has repeatedly indicated that his Design Intentions are to keep the BYE Interface as Straightforward as possible and leave most ancillary functions to the various Equipment Providers Don't let this discourage you, as every Vote for a Feature may indeed convince Guylain to make it his Next Feature project.
  23. Could I suggest a few additions to the existing focus functions: 1.) keyboard shortcuts for in / out focus and halt. 2.) ensure that the various four arrow keys drive the focuser at different speeds 3.) add a go to position for the focuser Many thanks David
  24. There are no keyboard shortcuts.... but this would be a good item to add in the feature suggestion box forum... this is where I go when I have some spare time
  25. admin

    Supported Nikon cameras

    The D5300 is supported.
  26. admin

    Supported Nikon cameras

    Go to the store product page and then scroll down and select the camera tab.
  27. It sounds like a nice setup. I hope these upgrades work out for you.
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