Temperature display

[hefy_jefy]

Been using BYE for several years with my Canon EOS Rebel SL1 and its working well.  The question I have is where is the temperature reading taken from, and what would be the normal range?  I noticed the other evening that the temperature was around 120F and wondered if I should be switching the camera off between sessions because I guess the warmer it gets the noisier the imagery will be?

Thanks for any info,

Geoff

[astroman133]

Geoff,

As far as I know, Canon does not provide any info on the exact location of the temperature sensor in the camera. BYE harvests the value from the metadata in the downloaded image.

I believe that if the camera senses the temperature is high enough to cause damage to the camera it will shut itself down.

If you are running off the battery, you might find that the camera will run cooler if you replace it with a "fake battery" A/C adapter. Also, limiting the use of LiveView can help the camera run cooler. However, pausing between long duration exposures is typically not productive. You may be better to get a cooled camera for summertime imaging.

[s3igell]

Geoff, the Temperatures recorded by the Camera, while not tested at the surface of the Sensor (proved by a gang of CN'ers who disassembled Cameras), is in a position that records a very useful - very linear - corollary Temp which can be relied upon for the purposes of Darks-Matching.

The Body of the DSLR will slowly absorb the Heat generated by the Sensor and the CPU - until the entire thing is "Heat-Soaked".  This means that the Initial Temp is also important - don't leave your DSLR in the Hot Car while setting up the Mount.  At the same time, it does little good to "Chill" the Camera beforehand, as the Air Temp will drive the Camera toward Ambient Temps and then the Usage will drive it Higher - all meaning a larger Temp Swing for Matching Darks.

Things you can do:

1. Start the Imaging Session with the Camera at near Ambient Temp
2. Keep your use of LiveView to a Minimum - Focus as quickly as possible; perform Polar Alignment with Other Resources (PoleMaster, AutoGuider, All-Star Polar Alignment, or oldfashioned Eyeball)
3. Keep the Back-side LCD Off, and if Articulated then Flip it Open so that Airflow can carry Heat from the solid Camera Body behind the LCD
4. Replace the Battery with a "Fake-Battery" Power Kit (make sure it is the type with the Voltage Regulator elsewhere than in the "Fake-Battery Body" else you are trading a low-grade heat source for a higher one)
5. And for the Extreme: Have your DSLR Modded including a Cold-Finger Cooler. (Or cheap-out like me and strap a frozen Blue Ice to the Camera Body where the LCD folds out - story for another time - but it works!!)

Of course, you can move from DSLR Imaging to Dedicated AP Camera.  But that comes with Significant Expenses, extra Complications, and having to walk-away from BYE/BYN...

 

[hefy_jefy]

Useful information thank you!

Geoff