USB cable length

[Szumi]

I'm planning to use BYE with my Canon 7D2.  Right now I have a 4 foot cable.  I'd like something a bit longer so if the mosquitoes are really hungry I can string the cable into my car to my laptop.  What are good ways to do that and have good transfer speed?

Thanks,

Szumi

[Jim]

I use the following USB 3 10m active cable

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00B9G4AZ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

with this USB powered hub (12V) 

Anker® AH240 SuperSpeed Charger and Data Transfer Hub with 7 USB 3.0 Ports, Including a 12V / 5A Power Adapter [Chipset VL811+] (no longer available but they probably make an equivalent).

I run my 7D2 as USB 3, and my scope and data heavy QHY-5II guide camera as USB 2 with no issues. The hub allows USB 3 and 2 devices to run correctly concurrently across different ports, some hubs restrict all the port speeds to the lowest denominator (I.e. if a USB 1.1 or 2 device is connected then all ports restricted to that speed).

Hope this helps.

 

Jim

 

[admin]

The protocol allows for about 15 feet.  Anything longer and you should get an active repeater cable which will allow you to get well beyond that 15 feet limit.

 

Regards

[s3igell]

Because the Canon 7DmkII is a USB3-based connection, you will need to keep the Cable Length to 3 meters (10ft).

Cable Quality does matter, and high-end construction of a cable could allow for a few extra feet of operational length.  Remember:  You get what you pay for...

There are now a couple of good USB3 Active-Repeater Extension Cables, but for the same expense you might also look at adding a Powered USB3 Hub plus a Li-Ion Battery Pack and a 10ft USB3 Cable (plus the Canon-supplied 5ft to get you about 15ft).

[AaronSmall]

s3igell,

Does this mean that a active repeater USB2 cable won't work with the 7DmkII?  I was just thinking that the original poster may still be able to use a USB2 cable at the sacrifice of the lower speed.  I use a pair of 30m cables with my 1100D (and overall rig) and it works great.  I do wish the transfer speed from the camera were faster, but nothing I can do about that until I get another camera.  I have one cable for my guide camera due to bandwidth and the second to everything else (via 12V powered USB hub).

Aaron

[Szumi]

On 7/23/2017 at 10:36 AM, s3igell said:

Because the Canon 7DmkII is a USB3-based connection, you will need to keep the Cable Length to 3 meters (10ft).

Cable Quality does matter, and high-end construction of a cable could allow for a few extra feet of operational length.  Remember:  You get what you pay for...

There are now a couple of good USB3 Active-Repeater Extension Cables, but for the same expense you might also look at adding a Powered USB3 Hub plus a Li-Ion Battery Pack and a 10ft USB3 Cable (plus the Canon-supplied 5ft to get you about 15ft).

I'll likely get the active usb 3 extension cable first but someday I may run two cameras.  What hub / battery pack do you recommend?

Thanks,

Szumi

[astroman133]

Not a Nikon owner so can't comment on battery packs. Almost any powered USB 3 hub should be fine, but I wouldn't necessarily get the cheapest one.

[s3igell]

13 hours ago, Szumi said:

I'll likely get the active usb 3 extension cable first but someday I may run two cameras.  What hub / battery pack do you recommend?

I've been happy with ANKER branded Powered Hubs (I have both USB3 and USB2 types) in part because of the quality construction and in part because they accept 12V Power (rather than requiring separate 12V-5V converter) - AND because they don't have the BLARINGLY BRIGHT BLUE LED Syndrome of so many Hubs.

As for Battery (I assume you are asking about 12V LI-Ion or LI-PO to power the Hub), it is unfortunately the case that Battery Makers are Coming and Going and Changing Brand Names TOO FAST to keep track.  There are numerous 12V "Car Jump-Start" LI-Ion Batteries now, just find one with decent Capacity and a ready 12V Port with a Cable configuration which you can safely convert to the Plug needed by your Hub (usually a Cigarette Plug style is involved).  ELSE, you can revert to the copious 12V Lead-Acid Batteries available in many shapes and sizes as Jump-Start / Roadside Aid kits (just look for one with the best arrangement of Poser Connections - Cigarette Plug / USB  /Barrel - and the least number of "distractions" such as built-in Air Pumps).

 

[s3igell]

On 7/23/2017 at 8:30 PM, AaronSmall said:

s3igell,

Does this mean that a active repeater USB2 cable won't work with the 7DmkII?

This is hard to say, as so much depends on the Quality of Support for the Full USB2 Spec within whatever Chips used in any specific USB2 Repeater Cable.  USB3 is supposed to work backward compatible to USB2, but in the early days there were Many Heartaches as users found out that their USB2 Ports were implemented with Chips that didn't quite cut it; and lots of Device and Board Manufacturers who scrambled to restock their Production Lines with "Better" Chips.  The Active Repeater Cable Market is so small that it's hard to say whether they have completed a similar shake-down period.

[astroman133]

2 hours ago, s3igell said:

As for Battery (I assume you are asking about 12V LI-Ion or LI-PO to power the Hub),

I assumed that he was talking about battery packs to provide extended run time for the camera.

I have 2 12V deep cycle gel batteries, like are used to power personal watercraft. I use one to power my laptop and the other to power the rest of my gear when running without A/C power.

[AaronSmall]

I have a 7 port USB3 hub (for when i want to upgrade someday) powered with a 12V source.  It is the 60W version from Plugable (http://plugable.com/products/usb3-hub7bc/).  No problems at all running from my 30m USB2 active repeater cable.  It has only one small LED that can be covered with tape (I use clear red tape like used for car lens repairs).  I haven't yet tried it with USB3 because so much of my equipment is USB2 so I can't comment on it's performance at that level.  I suspect it will be fine.

I power it from either a 12V jump start box (has only 1 lighter port to split to 3) or a 12V DIY box (with 4 lighter slots and separate twin 5V USB) I built using an old time lead-acid marine deep cycle battery.  If I had thought it out more, I would go with the gel-cell batteries since they weigh so much less.

[Szumi]

On 7/30/2017 at 6:35 AM, Jim said:

I use the following USB 3 10m active cable

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00B9G4AZ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

with this USB powered hub (12V) 

Anker® AH240 SuperSpeed Charger and Data Transfer Hub with 7 USB 3.0 Ports, Including a 12V / 5A Power Adapter [Chipset VL811+] (no longer available but they probably make an equivalent).

I run my 7D2 as USB 3, and my scope and data heavy QHY-5II guide camera as USB 2 with no issues. The hub allows USB 3 and 2 devices to run correctly concurrently across different ports, some hubs restrict all the port speeds to the lowest denominator (I.e. if a USB 1.1 or 2 device is connected then all ports restricted to that speed).

Hope this helps.

 

Jim

 

I ended up buying a TeatherPro USB 3.0 USB cable.  To test it, I ran ChrystalDiskMark on a USB flash drive plugged directly into a USB 3 port on my pc.  Then I tried it with the flash drive at the end of the 16 ft cable.  Identical performance, I'm getting 139.6 MB/S read.

Thanks,

 

[Jim]

Szumi, exactly what I did when weeding out active repeater cables and hubs to sort out ones that worked from those that 'nearly' worked. One active cable I tried effectively prevented the hub from running full USB 3 speeds, and one of the hubs only worked at USB 3 from some of its ports. Thanks to Amazon's excellent returns policy I just sent them a copy of my tests and they allowed me to return the items and swap them out for brands that worked :^))

Jim